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Routes in Hartensteiner Wand

5 vor 12 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Aprilscherz S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Blue Bolt S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Der kleine Nils S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Die Hunderteinjähriger S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Flop S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Geschweifter Riss T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Grabsteinweg S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Grufty S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hummelstaner Weg S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knapp daneben S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mama's Boys S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
My Secret Life S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Trimmpfad S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Ziech oder Fliech S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: K. Scharrer 1988
Page Views: 19 total, 0/month
Shared By: Shawn Heath on Sep 1, 2013
Admins: Shawn Heath

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Description

I didn't find this route to be very nice, rather a bad representation of the climbing to be found here. Maybe I just wasn't in form, but I thought the holds felt slightly slopey and somewhat unreliable. The 1st bolt is already somewhat high, and then you climb well above it to reach the second bolt. Looking down at the 2nd bolt will surely point out why, as the ground-fall potential looks very real. Clip the 2nd and proceed up to a sling. "Top out" and climb a long ways through easier terrain, then climb slightly up an overhang to clip the last bolt and thank God you didn't fall from this clip position. Head up the overhang on jugs to the anchor.
The name (Tombstone Way) is fitting since if you fall at the 2nd or 4th bolts you're going to be in serious pain.

Location

The furthest route to the left.

Protection

3 bolts, 1 sling + pigtail anchor

Photos

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