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Routes in The Ice House

1999 S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Baby Face S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Cool Places S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Nothing is Easy S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Powderhouse S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Satellite S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sylvia's Slab S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: D. Meyers
Page Views: 617 total, 12/month
Shared By: John Wilder on Aug 23, 2013
Admins: Justin Johnsen

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Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Description

A phenomenal route that makes this cliff well worth the arduous and long hike in.

This beauty ascends the prominent blue tufa feature that starts about 15' above the ground and continues for about 40' to an obvious right facing corner crack, ending on a ledge above the crack.

Boulder out the powerful, devious moves directly below the roof to the first bolt, then cast off on some of the best limestone in Nevada for the next 60' or so. (ignore the bolt out left of the roof- i think this is used if you use the pine-tree to get to the first bolt of the route proper).

You MUST pre-clip the first bolt on this route- the opening moves are insecure and powerful, definitely the crux of the route (although not the only 5.12 moves!). Despite this weird bolt setup, the rest of the route is very well protected.

Location

About midline on the cliff- look for the obvious, fat tufa feature that ends in a small, horizontal roof about 15' up. The first bolt is above the roof and NEEDS to be stick clipped, as the opening moves are the crux of the route. Bring some tape- there are plenty of big sticks around.

If you reach Powderhouse, you've gone about 50' too far.

Protection

10 bolts, anchor

Photos

Mr. Stevens
Boulder, CO
Mr. Stevens   Boulder, CO
Super good route. Definitely worth the hike just for this. I thought the crux was making the move from the roof PAST the first bolt. Getting to the roof wasn't that bad...

The upper part of this route SEEPS in the spring/early summer (i.e. full on waterfall near the anchors). But it's all jugs at that point, so it's actually pretty fun with the water spraying all over you. Jun 29, 2017