Avg: 3.3 from 3 votes
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||617 total, 12/month|
|Shared By:||John Wilder on Aug 23, 2013|
Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details
Much of this area is in the Mount Charleston Wilderness Area, learn which crags are within our outside of it before you go. See the BLM Fact Sheet blm.gov/sites/blm.gov/files… for a good overview of what it protects and what that limits, and the Forest Service page fs.usda.gov/detailfull/htnf… for other information.
DescriptionA phenomenal route that makes this cliff well worth the arduous and long hike in.
This beauty ascends the prominent blue tufa feature that starts about 15' above the ground and continues for about 40' to an obvious right facing corner crack, ending on a ledge above the crack.
Boulder out the powerful, devious moves directly below the roof to the first bolt, then cast off on some of the best limestone in Nevada for the next 60' or so. (ignore the bolt out left of the roof- i think this is used if you use the pine-tree to get to the first bolt of the route proper).
You MUST pre-clip the first bolt on this route- the opening moves are insecure and powerful, definitely the crux of the route (although not the only 5.12 moves!). Despite this weird bolt setup, the rest of the route is very well protected.
LocationAbout midline on the cliff- look for the obvious, fat tufa feature that ends in a small, horizontal roof about 15' up. The first bolt is above the roof and NEEDS to be stick clipped, as the opening moves are the crux of the route. Bring some tape- there are plenty of big sticks around.
If you reach Powderhouse, you've gone about 50' too far.