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Voyager One
5.13- YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E7 6c British
Type: | Sport, 110 ft (33 m) |
FA: | Pawel Szafruga |
Page Views: | 2,196 total · 15/month |
Shared By: | Pawel Szafruga on Jul 15, 2013 |
Admins: | Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
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There is sometimes a sign that says no camping, but according to the rangers it also means no parking. This pullout is rented by the Stockman Cattle Ranch between those dates and they need to be able to back up their trailer into this spot to put cattle in the corral. It's very important to respect this rule. We could lose access to this area if our relationship with the rangers deteriorates over this issue. Based on numerous interactions with the rangers, it is clear that they are watching out for climbers. Please park under the trees out by the road or in the big open field adjacent to the horse pens. Please pick up your trash (maybe some of the redneck's trash too), pack out your poop, and be polite.
Description
The longest pitch on the wall. Climb Power of Silence until the second resting pod and then trend slightly left to the anchors of Vice Grip. There is a new bolt up and left from the pod that eliminates the need for long slings and minimizes rope drag. Stopping at the first anchors is about mid 5.12 (Power of Vice), and is not nearly as enjoyable as doing the full Power of Silence.
From the anchors of Vice Grip the best part of the pitch starts. Continuous bouldering for three bolts lands you at an okay stance to regroup before embarking into the final section of thin face climbing. Cool holds, memorable movement, a little spice and even a finishing mantle round off this expedition.
From the anchors of Vice Grip the best part of the pitch starts. Continuous bouldering for three bolts lands you at an okay stance to regroup before embarking into the final section of thin face climbing. Cool holds, memorable movement, a little spice and even a finishing mantle round off this expedition.
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