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Routes in South Buttress (Linoy Buttress)

And Now For Something Completely Different T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R
Corpsicle T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A2
Gun, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Heel-a-Peel T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Hugh's 11 T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Metamorphosis T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Monkey See, Monkey Do T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Point, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Raven T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Under the Gun T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Warrior's Way T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 150 ft, 2 pitches
FA: 2007 - Eric Beyeler and Rob Holzman
Page Views: 776 total, 14/month
Shared By: Kyle Stapp on Jun 8, 2013
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

A wonderfully fun climb. The second pitch is the "money" pitch for sure.

P1 - climb straight up (make your way up) to a two bolted belay that sits just below the overhanging rock.

P2 - you start immediately pulling the first overhang (protected by a bolt) and climb straight up through two vertical sections to the top. There is a large evergreen +/-15ft back from the cliffs edge (probably slung with webbing but don't count on it!) to belay and rappel from.

Use your best judgement for the descent. 1 60m won't make it in one rapp. Use the bolted belay as a second rappel point. Two 60m will make it in one rapp.

Location

Just past (farther up the trail/base) the Pyramid Formation area. The start is at a "flat arch shaped face" and goes straight up.

Protection

Standard rack. Depending on your start it can take on a PG-13 rating. The start of the second pitch, the first overhang is protected by a well placed bolt. There are trees to sling on the first pitch if you'd like.

Photos

Eric Beyeler
  5.7+
Eric Beyeler  
  5.7+
Robert! Hope you're liking NZ. I still remember our bushwhacking to boulders in the middle of nowhere. And you turned me into a crack lover! I still think this climb is one of the best trad lines in PA, glad we found it! I think Rob H brought a drill for the bolt on the overhang... our hand drilled anchors were a few days/weeks earlier. Jun 26, 2015
Actually I put the bolts in (not that it really matters). Eric and I were climbing up there one day and picked a random spot to rap down. Eric kept saying it looked like a great route, but he thought it needed a bolt at the roof. So I went back and rope soloed the first pitch and put in the anchor (hand drill) so it could be climbed with a single rope, and the bolt at the roof. Eric then went back with Rob and led it. He kept telling me it was good, and when I went back with him and climbed the second pitch it was pretty good, much better than I had expected. He contacted one of the guys that climbed there in the old days to see if the route had been done before, and he didn't think it had. So great addition to the area, and as you said great vision on Eric's part. Oct 18, 2014
Kyle Stapp
Pennsylvania
 
Kyle Stapp   Pennsylvania  
 
This is the funnest trad/mixed multi-pitch climb in Pennsylvania I've done so far.

You cannot sew up either pitch so be prepared to be calculated with your pro.

Good job Eric and Rob! Thanks for the bolts (the ease of them is welcome) and the vision.

4 out of 4 stars for the area for sure. Jun 8, 2013