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Choss For Your Kitten Mittens (P1: The Foraging Spectrum)

Name: Choss For Your Kitten Mittens (P1: The Foraging Spectrum)
Rating: 3.0

5.10 YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII- UIAA 19 ZA E2 5b British PG13

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Routes in Slickrock Buttress

	Choss For Your Kitten Mittens (P1: The Foraging Spectrum) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
	Daisy Duke T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Time Pain Continuum T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown 5.10 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Unsentimental Journey T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c

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Type:	Trad, 300 ft (91 m), 2 pitches, Grade II
GPS:	38.15069, -108.88167
FA:	Jon Fike, Lindsey Hamm, NM, and Liz Schmohl, 3/13 (P1: Vince McMillan, Warren Gabbert, 9/27/2002)
Page Views:	1,541 total · 9/month
Shared By:	Nik Mirhashemi on Apr 23, 2013 · Updates
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Wildlife study area Details

It appears that the large, blank-looking, south facing wall and all other walls downstream of this are in a designated wildlife study zone and therefore fixed anchors are prohibited. This does not apply to Slickrock Buttress.

Description

This is a stellar adventure route with some loose sections in the middle. Follow a splitter crack system through bulges and a spectacular triple roof crux. Be sure to bring your wide gear and trad anchor skills. There are no bolts on the route. It is a bit sandy, but after a few more ascents, it could be a real classic!

Pitch 1 - start up the ever steepening hand crack the widens from #1 to #3 Camalot. Pull through a couple bulges and a tricky pod section with loose rock. Set up gear belay on sloping ledge at base of gully. 5.10-, 150 feet.

Pitch 2 - carefully jam and stem up loose gully to a large terrace. It is possible to set up an intermediate belay here. Continue up short bombay crack leading to triple roofs. The middle one is wide and takes old #4 or new #5 Camalots. Pull through final roof past chockstone and continue up splitter #3 hand crack. Mantle up to a ledge and climb short chimney section to rim. Belay on trees. 5.10, 180 feet.

Location

Start at base of lichen-covered, left-facing corner on right side of buttress. Hopefully there will be sporting a plaque soon?

Descent - walk south off the rim (climber's right) and eventually traverse back under the cliff to the start.