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Routes in Sanitarium

Anger Management T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Commitment Issues V0 4
Helen Keller's Slot T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
No Pad No Problem V2 5+ PG13
Superfly V5 6C
Through The Rabbit Hole T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Wind Below, The V2 5+
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Michael Madsen
Page Views: 94 total, 2/month
Shared By: Wilson On The Drums on Apr 5, 2013
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

If 4on6 and Seul Avec Dieu got together and had a baby it's name would be Superfly. This route is a blast and with more traffic will gain reputation as being a classic. Stand start with right had on a pinch and left foot on good edge. Stand up and get left hand high (as seen in photo). Now for the crux sequence. Pull off an insane left foot high step (circled in photo) and smear and pull (on nothing). Get your right foot on a good edge (underlined in photo) and reestablish your hand on tiny crystals. Now if you're tall you'll be able to hit the horn from here (also circled in photo), but if your 5'8'' like me your gonn have to work out some beta very similar to 4on6 to hit the horn. For me it was a very insecure smear with my left foot. Once you hit the horn get your head together, point your nose up, and head for the top.

Protection

As many pads as possible

Photos

Mike Madsen
Rapid City
  V5
Mike Madsen   Rapid City  
  V5
i believe Carls problem is slightly left of this one. Willy and I did some clean up and the first two holds broke off to produce better holds. If memory serves me right it was really really dirty. There were other "cleaned" lines on this block though. I did ask Greg, Dave and BK and neither of them said they touched this block. I had heard Carl had a problem on this slab though. hmmm..... classic BH bouldering case here. Feb 1, 2015
ShanJ2me
Rapid City, SD
ShanJ2me   Rapid City, SD
Good problem! hard to say who got the FA. I know Carl Gastola did it in 06. however Dave A and Greg Parker did a lot of development in the 90's not to mention Brent Kertzman and the Red Dot guy bouldered back here in the 80's Mar 3, 2014
Wilson On The Drums
Woodbury, MN
 
Wilson On The Drums   Woodbury, MN
 
Sorry if I sounded worked up, I was just really saying thanks for giving some input. And again if you know the FA info and any other problems around in the Robinson Rock area it'd be great to hear it. Apr 6, 2013