Type: Trad, 600 ft (182 m), 4 pitches
FA: ??? - undocumented
Page Views: 3,221 total · 24/month
Shared By: Tony B on Feb 6, 2013
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

The Regency is a large crag and certainly has climbing other than the documented line on El Camino Royale. The crag is large enough, in fact, that other scrambling opportunities offer climbing with no overlapping area and none close to it, as well as of a significantly different vantage point and rock character. One such line is the NE Ridge.

From the base, head up and North along to the last of the various aspects and buttresses and climb that up over 3 overlapping slabs from bottom to top. The rock is mostly very good and clean. It is a 3-star line if climbed through the best and most continuous features.

To borrow from Nick's comment below, perhaps for greater clarity since a few people have reported poor conditions on their scramble: "the key to keeping the climbing fun and clean on this route is to maintain your position just a little ways down and climber's left of the crest of the NE Rib. Staying true to the ridge proper gets you into some stupid not fun terrain that is harder than 5.0. Keeping to the cleaned, mostly lichen free rock about 100' or so below the ridge crest will keep the smiles coming :) "

Location Suggest change

This route climbs up a series of walls on the Northern edge of the crag, going up and over 2 false summits along the way and up the next part of the formation. This is so 'detached' from the listed route, El Camino Royale, that the listed route can scantily even be seen from it.

Protection Suggest change

Although the rock is given to scrambling/soloing, I suspect a standard light rack could be used to protect it about normally for an easy Flatiron climb. We did not attempt to place gear, however.

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