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Routes in UB Observatory Cliffs

Corner, The T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Give The Canadian The Slip T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Its Hissing At Me T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Leap Frog T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Turtle, The TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, TR, 100 ft
FA: Ben Sebald
Page Views: 52 total, 1/month
Shared By: Ben Sebald on Jan 5, 2013
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Description

This is the easiest line up the south side of the same formation as The Corner and The Yellow Turtle. It starts on easy 5.7 to 5.8 with great gear. Jams crimps jugs everything is there. Then once you are about 80 feet up you must traverse over to the left. This traverse has a great exposed feel. It is pure balance definably a mental crux when leading as there is not any way to place gear on the traverse (the moves probably aren't even 5.9 worthy but that's what the metal effects deserve). The ground drops down the hill making you feel way higher up than you've climbed. Then proceed to work up two finger cracks till you reach some under-clings right near the top. Traverse right finishing with a big reach to a jug.

Location

It is to south of the corner, and is just at the beginning of where the south side get considerably larger due to the hill's slant and the actual top rising higher.

Protection

Its great gear all the way up to the top. We did it with nuts and hexes.

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