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Routes in 03. Double-Tier Wall

Allegro TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Bone Machine T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Cam-O-Rama T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gold Fist T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Love Handle T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mutts Furniture T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Nappy Wig T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Rites of Spring (aka Led Hed) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Sleet Feet T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Spring Chicken T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Staccato T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 108 total, 2/month
Shared By: Jonathan Spencer on Nov 29, 2012
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

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Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

Striking pillar with finger crack. Overhanging the whole way.

Location

10 yards right of Gold fist. Obvious steep pillar jutting out with anchors.

Protection

TCU's. Closed Shut Anchors.

Photos

Fun climb, next time I'm in Blacksburg I really need to get back to Bozoo. Mar 18, 2013
P. Sully  
 
FA: Paul Sullivan - Sept. 1994

Thin gear at bottom till you can sink a good TCU. I remember using a red Lowe Ball. Then good mid-sized cams through the middle of the thuggy route. Finish using the face just left of the fingercrack; while placing gear and using handholds in small fingercrack on right.

You can up the grade by using only the fingercrack and not touching the slabby face on left of shuts.

Originally graded 10+; last time I led the route it felt more like 11b. Dec 4, 2012