Type: Trad, TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 129 total · 2/month
Shared By: Jonathan Spencer on Nov 29, 2012
Admins: Jay Shultis, Ladd, Shawn Heath, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones

You & This Route


2 Opinions

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Access Issue: Private Property - Access Sensitive Details

Description

Striking pillar with finger crack. Overhanging the whole way.

Location

10 yards right of Gold fist. Obvious steep pillar jutting out with anchors.

Protection

TCU's. Closed Shut Anchors.

Photos

P. Sully  
 
FA: Paul Sullivan - Sept. 1994

Thin gear at bottom till you can sink a good TCU. I remember using a red Lowe Ball. Then good mid-sized cams through the middle of the thuggy route. Finish using the face just left of the fingercrack; while placing gear and using handholds in small fingercrack on right.

You can up the grade by using only the fingercrack and not touching the slabby face on left of shuts.

Originally graded 10+; last time I led the route it felt more like 11b. Dec 4, 2012
Fun climb, next time I'm in Blacksburg I really need to get back to Bozoo. Mar 18, 2013