For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Eagle Buttress and Environs

Beth Anne's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Klesmerica T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mission to Moscow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ric Rac Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shake it Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strangeways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ultralite Flight T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Andy Ross, Gene Vallee, Shingo Ohkawa & Alex Quitiquit
Page Views: 143 total · 2/month
Shared By: apross on Nov 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description [Suggest Change]

This is a great route which requires all the granite techniques. Deceptively steep and sustained, we thought it was going to be about 9+ when we first looked at it.
Four cruxes. Which one is harder? Depends on your technique.
Takes gear well, especially wires.

Location [Suggest Change]

This is on the lowest part of the crag, 20ft down and right of the obvious corner. Starts below a small tree stump.
See Shake it Up for directions to the crag.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Set of wires, 1/2" to 3" cams and bolts.
Keep a 1/2",1" and 3" cams for between the two bolts. Little 5.6 runout at the top to the bolt anchor.

Photos

Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.11-
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.11-
A whole lot of deceptively awesome climbing. Nov 30, 2012
Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11-
Derek West Newman   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11-
It doesn't look at all how it climbs. Really fun movement with lots of rests. Great gear and a bolt to protect the crux, thank god. Oct 24, 2013

More About Strangeways

Printer-Friendly