Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Eagle Buttress and Environs

Beth Anne's Crack T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Corner, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Klesmerica T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mission to Moscow T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ric Rac Crack T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shake it Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Strangeways T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ultralite Flight T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Andy Ross, Gene Vallee, Shingo Ohkawa & Alex Quitiquit
Page Views: 126 total, 2/month
Shared By: apross on Nov 22, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

This is a great route which requires all the granite techniques. Deceptively steep and sustained, we thought it was going to be about 9+ when we first looked at it.
Four cruxes. Which one is harder? Depends on your technique.
Takes gear well, especially wires.

Location

This is on the lowest part of the crag, 20ft down and right of the obvious corner. Starts below a small tree stump.
See Shake it Up for directions to the crag.

Protection

Set of wires, 1/2" to 3" cams and bolts.
Keep a 1/2",1" and 3" cams for between the two bolts. Little 5.6 runout at the top to the bolt anchor.

Photos

Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11-
Derek West Newman   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11-
It doesn't look at all how it climbs. Really fun movement with lots of rests. Great gear and a bolt to protect the crux, thank god. Oct 24, 2013
Alex Quitiquit
Salt Lake City
  5.11-
Alex Quitiquit   Salt Lake City
  5.11-
A whole lot of deceptively awesome climbing. Nov 30, 2012