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Routes in Paleosol Wall

Aggressive Posturing T,S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Babies Have Rabies T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Bioturbation T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Brown Chicken Brown Cow S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Day Old Mackerel S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Diagenesis S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Flat Rock Flight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Ft Mac Gravy Train T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
German on 2nd T,S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Get Crazy With the Cheese Wiz T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hooose S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Jungle Gym S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
KYBHT! T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mafic T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mass Extinction S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mass Wasting S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
My Favorite Human S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Night Watchman T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Open Project TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Paleoflow T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Paleomagnetism T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Paleosol T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pull the Trigger T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Punctuated Equilibrium S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Roof Pendant T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Technicon Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Topographic Reversal T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ultramafic S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Vesicle Joyride S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Xenolith T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 327 total, 5/month
Shared By: Alex Garhart on Nov 8, 2012
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Jared LaVacque, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

I bolted the TR anchors for this and ran out of time to finish it. Make some tricky moves off the deck to gain a slabby, right-facing corner that leads to a roof. Pull through the improbable roof and the climbing eases above.

Location

See the beta photo on the main page.

Protection

2 bolt TR anchor. The route will probably need at least one bolt at the roof.

Photos

This route can go all on gear with some exciting but easy run-outs. The opening moves begin left of the right-facing corner at an undercut with jugs, just below a thin splitter. You can place a good puple C3 to protect the opening 5.10 moves, and then it's runout 5.9 up to the roof where you can plug in a variety of gear, the safest being purple and green C3s on the right side, below the roof crux. The roof feels V3ish and the climbing eases above with intermittent gear in horizontals (1.5-2.5").

I got close to sending this, but I'm leaving until March. Somebody go crush this thing! Sep 11, 2013