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Routes in Middle Tier

Hashtag Selfie S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
90's Chick S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
B.F.F. S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Burning Book S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Burning Bush S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Great White Bighorn S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Honey Dipped S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
L.O.L. S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Spiderkids S 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: Brent Webster
Page Views: 954 total, 14/month
Shared By: rtrett14 on Jul 6, 2012
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

Follow the bolt line up the left side of the middle tier face on slanty holds. The crux on the first pitch is getting over the gap by either following crack up right or maneuvering directly over gap. Proceed up easy face climbing to your pick of 3 top anchors (to left of bush, right/under bush, and above bush). If continuing on to 2nd pitch the anchors above the bush provide a nice belay ledge. There are variations on the second pitch to get up to the ridge - the bolted route to the left from the belay station above the bush is a sustained 5.10a with blocky vertical holds.

Location

To the left of Burning Bush. Starts out towards the low double bolts.

Protection

10-12 quick draws. There are a couple options for top anchors on the first pitch and the second pitch will take you up to the top of the ridge with anchors to rappel off (3 rappels and you're back on the ground).

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Hank G
Flagstaff, AZ
 
Hank G   Flagstaff, AZ
 
LOL to Can't Remember is an awesome link-up. The crux on LOL is a good one, lots of interesting blocky holds. Mar 3, 2013
MattMyers
  5.10a
MattMyers  
  5.10a
To Clarify: Climb the brown hangers (second from left, 14 bolts). Use the Chain anchor under the stump.(left anchor is for B.F.F., the right anchor is for the second pitch of Burning Bush) Above the stump is the Bird Ledge. Second pitch in description is the Headwall. most people climb "bff" or "lol" then do "Cant Remember". Oct 16, 2012