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L.O.L.

5.10a, Sport, 100 ft (30 m),  Avg: 2.9 from 16 votes
FA: Brent Webster
California > San Bernardino… > Highway 38 Crags > (d) Frustration… > Middle Tier > Middle Tier (Left Side)

Description

Follow the bolt line up the left side of the middle tier face on slanty holds. The crux on the first pitch is getting over the gap by either following crack up right or maneuvering directly over gap. Proceed up easy face climbing to your pick of 3 top anchors (to left of bush, right/under bush, and above bush). If continuing on to 2nd pitch the anchors above the bush provide a nice belay ledge. There are variations on the second pitch to get up to the ridge - the bolted route to the left from the belay station above the bush is a sustained 5.10a with blocky vertical holds.

Location

To the left of Burning Bush. Starts out towards the low double bolts.

Protection

10-12 quick draws. There are a couple options for top anchors on the first pitch and the second pitch will take you up to the top of the ridge with anchors to rappel off (3 rappels and you're back on the ground).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mateo Myst
Bishop, CA
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] To Clarify: Climb the brown hangers (second from left, 14 bolts). Use the Chain anchor under the stump.(left anchor is for B.F.F., the right anchor is for the second pitch of Burning Bush) Above the stump is the Bird Ledge. Second pitch in description is the Headwall. most people climb "bff" or "lol" then do "Cant Remember". Oct 16, 2012
Hank G
Carlsbad, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] LOL to Can't Remember is an awesome link-up. The crux on LOL is a good one, lots of interesting blocky holds. Mar 3, 2013