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Routes in Dizzy Rock

Dizzy Channel, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fish Pin S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 300 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 506 total, 8/month
Shared By: C Hopwood on Jul 3, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

P1- Climb through moss, moss, and more moss. Most footholds and handholds are covered but luckily the climbing is easy slab. When you reach a stained black alcove, you face the crux as you pull up and over the alcove on trickier holds to the 1st chains. Look to your right for a nail driven into the face. Don’t remove the nail! It was found during the "first ascent" and is the namesake of the climb.
P2- The second pitch is better than the first. Don’t be scared by the language in the guidebooks. You pull two distinct bulges on this pitch, but you can reach up high and clip bolts on both of them before you even step on. They are steep but well protected.
P3- This is a stellar pitch! It is the airiest by far, so enjoy the exposure. The pitch is steep, the rock is clean, and the holds are watermelons. Again, the protection is good. Continue to either one of two sets of chains 30M up.
P4- Not really a pitch. A 10 foot 4th class scramble to the top of the formation. Rope up if you desire and belay from one of the two poles on top. Bring slings. Walk off the west side of the formation and follow a steep trail back down into the Middle Fork.

Location

Wander across the bridge towards Left Fork. Before you reach the Pictograph Wall, take a right and hike a few hundred feet up along the base of Dizzy Rock until you see the first bolt.

Protection

15 quickdraws to chains.

Photos

Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
Didn't have a chance to climb this after Dizzy Channel due to the time, but we scoped it out during our rappel down.
P3 looks AMAZING!!!! Well protected and SUPER airy. All the holds seem really good!
First two pitches look OK, they're cleaning up well and I imagine with more traffic they'll be looking great! Feb 14, 2015
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
 
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
 
I second Matts sentiments. The "dangers" in the original description were WAY over exaggerated. And I made improvements to the route AFTER DK wrote his guide. This route is a mighty fine romp, well protected. No X anywhere on the route. Dont miss it!!! Feb 8, 2013
Matt Selman
Salt Lake City
 
Matt Selman   Salt Lake City
 
Some older topos and guides have given this route an R rating; this refers to the route as it was originally bolted. Jason Stevens, the first ascensionist, returned in 2012 to add a few bolts, removing the R rating. Very worthwhile for the awesome exposed jug haul on the third pitch headwall. Jan 8, 2013