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Routes in Dizzy Rock

Dizzy Channel, The S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fish Pin S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 270 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Matthew Selman, 2012
Page Views: 1,961 total, 29/month
Shared By: Matt Selman on Apr 28, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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23 Opinions

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Description

The Dizzy Channel is a moderate jaunt up the northwestern corner of Dizzy Rock. The route is well protected, with great exposure and excellent views of Maple.

Pitch 1 - The Hidey Hole: Follow the bolts as they meander through the best/cleanest sections of rock, climbing through a couple of short steep sections to a two-bolt belay in a pod. Keep your eyes peeled for the Hidey Hole, a deep, dark, fist-sized spider hole. 5.7.

Pitch 2: Take off up the arete from the belay. Walk the narrow ledge to the base of the tower bloc, and follow four bolts to a belay at its summit. 5.6.

Pitch 3: Step across to the wall of Dizzy Rock proper and follow the bolts up, paralleling the water streak on your right. Less-than-vertical terrain leads to the short, steep crux overhang. Jugs save the day here. Belay from two bolts on Shoe Leather Ledge just after the crux. 5.8.

Pitch 4: Follow the bolt line to chains just below the summit. 5.6.
To reach the true summit, the leader can either climb through this section and belay from steel pipes embedded on the summit, or bring the second up to the belay and scramble to the top. Either way it’s one or two easy fifth-class moves to reach the summit.

The Dizzy Channel is set up to be climbed in four pitches, but by skipping a few bolts or bringing along a few extra draws, pitches 1-2 and 3-4 can be combined. Be aware, however, that the staircase shape of the route can create drag.

Location

Approach:
The Dizzy Channel ascends the northwest arete of Dizzy Rock. Walk up along the base, passing the route Fish Pin, until you are under the steep overhanging arete. The route begins on less-steep terrain just around the arete.

Descent:
Three options exist for the descent. It is possible to rappel the route with a single 60 meter rope. A more direct rappel, however, can be found by scrambling down 15 feet to climber’s left from the final belay. Here a set of chains marks the top of Fish Pin, which can be descended with a 60 meter rope in a straight series of three rappels. If you’re rappelling, this is the recommended option. Finally, it is possible (and quite pleasant) to walk off the route from the summit of Dizzy Rock. A bit of third- and fourth-class scrambling to the south takes you off the summit of the formation and onto the rolling grassy bench that is the west rim of the Left Hand Fork. From here, either walk a faint trail south and down into the Left Hand Fork, or drop into a steep gully to the north and descend almost directly to the base of The Dizzy Channel.

Protection

All bolts. 12 draws will suffice.
Paul Wilhelmsen
sandy, ut
  5.8
Paul Wilhelmsen   sandy, ut
  5.8
Very fun climb! I took my partner up this for his second multi-pitch route. Very chill climbing and very closely bolted.
I thought 5.8 was perfect for the grade. or even soft. Drowning baby fish (5.7) in the schoolroom area is harder by far in my opinion. Jun 5, 2015
Emerson Takahashi
Casper, WY
  5.9
Emerson Takahashi   Casper, WY
  5.9
Good route, felt pretty clean with just a few loose rocks towards the top. We stacked some branches and rocks at the base of the climb to make the belay a little more comfortable.

I suggest combining the first 2 pitches together. P1 is easy and p2 is 15ft of easier climbing. Deal with the rope drag and keep climbing.
Bring some runners for p3, you belay from across a ledge, so there's a bit of rope drag. Topping out p3 is FUN! Steep bulge, and all the holds are jugs.

Decent: We rapped down from the top of Fish Pin. From the anchors at the top of P4, look down to your left maybe 10-15ft to find the anchors for Fish Pin. It's safe enough to slowly scramble down, but we roped up and did the extra rappel.

From there, just rap straight down. The anchors for the top P2 of Fish Pin are on a smaller ledge above the big grassy area, don't rap down too far! Feb 14, 2015
We a rappel from the top of pitch 2 to the ground with a 60 m rope, but it was just barely touching. If you try that make sure you start at the middle. Some of the scrambles made us a bit nervous having all that rope out and no bolts. Sep 6, 2014
Jimmymac222
South Jordan, UT
 
Jimmymac222   South Jordan, UT
 
Route is cleaning up well. Fun climbing and excellent views. Nice work Matt. Oct 26, 2013
Manilius  
 
Another great addition to the store of Maple multi-pitch moderates. The route follows a somewhat exposed arete for the majority of the start and ends with some face climbing with a two or three move crux over a bulge. Highly recommended. Dec 3, 2012
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
  5.9
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
  5.9
They all start that way, BK. Selman did his due diligence...I know he spent at least 8 hours cleaning the route. She'll clean up nice and tidy. May 15, 2012
Brian Koralewski
Springville, Utah
  5.9
Brian Koralewski   Springville, Utah
  5.9
This route was bolted very well. Unfortunately it is very dirty and very mossy. 2 baseball size rocks popped out on the first 3 bolts of the route. The crux is pulling over a bulge on dirty rocks on the 3rd pitch. It was a fun climb in any case. May 12, 2012
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
  5.9
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
  5.9
This is a super fun route, the best kind of adventure. It is well protected, has great belays out of harms way and has a fantastic summit. A Dr. Pepper machine on the summit is the only thing that would make it better.

Well done, Selman. Well done. May 3, 2012