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Routes in The Druid

Admiral Throckmorton S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bron- yr-aur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Corporal Punishment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crap Weasel S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Druid Roof 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Grips of Wrath, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Lightning S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack the Slipper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lights Out S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lord Fowelsbain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Multi roof ???? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Of Mice and Men T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Paganizer, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rupley's Believe It Or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thingfish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Scott Ayers
Page Views: 773 total, 12/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Jun 24, 2012
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Out of place at the Druid, Crap Weasel would be more at home at The Steep. An overhung, broken crack leads to vertical stemming. Rest on a massive ledge before completing a two bolt boulder problem finish.

Crap Weasel suffers from a few faults: the massive ledge that interrupts the flow and lichen. That said the movement is pretty spectacular and unique.

The indirect, easier start to this climb exploded and is no more. It was either off-route or genius route finding depending on your point-of-view. Either way it is nothing more than gravel now. Without this cheater start the route is an epic sandbag at 5.11.

Location

Crap Weasel is the right of two bolted lines in a little alcove. The left route is Thingfish. Roman Opposition was never bolted; it is a top rope. These routes are on the northeast face, away from the main wall.

Protection

7 bolts to chains.

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
  5.12-
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12-
This route is probably easier than I rated it if you are 6ft. plus. The start I used was probably 12- alone. The climbing was fun after that and the finish worth doing. Attentive belaying at the start and the finish is critical to the leaders safety as there are hard moves close to the ground.

BETA for short folks. Layback the left side of the dihedral at the start.

I suggest you rap this route as we destroyed a rope lowering off this. Aug 9, 2012