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Routes in The Druid

Admiral Throckmorton S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Bron- yr-aur T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Corporal Punishment S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crap Weasel S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Druid Roof 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a A3 R
Grips of Wrath, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
In Lightning S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jack the Slipper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lights Out S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lord Fowelsbain S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Multi roof ???? S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
No Name T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Of Mice and Men T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Paganizer, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Rupley's Believe It Or Not T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Thingfish S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Elevation: 7,787 ft
GPS: 32.406, -110.725 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 14,750 total, 79/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Sep 6, 2002
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

The Druid is a great locale most of the year. The base of most of the climbs are shaded by nice pines, so its easy to stay cool when the heat is on. It also offers some spectacular views of the city.

There are a lot of clip-ups, as well as some gear leads here. With ratings ranging from 5.5 to 5.11+ and routes up to two pitches long, there is something for everyone. There is also lots of easy toproping to be done at the far right end of the crag.

Recommended routes include In Lightning (5.8), and The Gripes of Wrath (5.10), among others.

Getting There

Driving up the Catalina Highway, turn left on Organization Ridge Rd. just before the Palisades Ranger Station. Take this dirt road toward Shower's Point Campground. Park in the pullout just past the right turn into the campground. Walk through the campground and up a gated dirt road for a couple hundred yards. When the road turns right, look for a trail leading off left into the forest. Follow this trail down a ridge for another few hundred yards to the back of the Druid.

When you see the back of the Druid, veer left and pick up a good trail leading down to the face with climbs. If you are bushwhacking, try again. The trail is fairly obvious.

If you are planning to camp, remember that Shower's Point is a group campground requiring advanced reservations.

17 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Druid

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
In Lightning
Sport 2 pitches
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Lights Out At Ten Candles Out At Eleven
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R
Bron- yr-aur
Trad 2 pitches
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Multi roof ????
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
In Lightning 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport 2 pitches
Lights Out At Ten Candles… 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
Bron- yr-aur 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b R Trad 2 pitches
Multi roof ???? 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Druid »

Weather Averages

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Justin Headley   Tucson
I agree with Jackson's remark. The routes I've done there (7 now) are all a bit stiff for the grade and the bolts (many of which are buttonheads) are spaced out just a little more than the average Mount Lemmon sport area. I guess it's due to when the routes were put up (80s-early 90s according to the guidebook). It's a beautiful and intimidating wall. Sep 17, 2017
Gerry Cook
Tucson, Arizona
Gerry Cook   Tucson, Arizona
On 5-3-15 Found a Pro-tec helmet near the parking area usually used for The Druid. If you lost it, ask for it at Rocks & Ropes. May 4, 2015
Jackson.
Flagstaff AZ
Jackson.   Flagstaff AZ
The climbs at this crag have a more serious feel then other sport crags on the mountain. The climbing is technical and be prepared to meander a bit to stay in grade. Mar 17, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Hahahaha very clever name!

I think "Crap Bolted" would be more appropriate. :) Jun 28, 2012
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
We got on a route called Crap Weasel not Thingfish. Hence Roman Opposition is still waiting for you Eric. Jun 28, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
A urinalysis should help clear it up. Jun 27, 2012
Probably a route of Scotts. Jun 26, 2012
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
Eric, if Roman Opposition is immediately to the left of Thingfish it is fully bolted. It looks like a good route on nice clean orange rock. The bolts and anchor style matched Thingfish. Jun 26, 2012
Might be the TR I listed as a completed route Roman Opposition. Meant to bolt and lead it but never got around to it. Should get it done if this is not one of the ones you are looking at. Jun 26, 2012
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
There are two sport routes not listed in the guidebook. Anyone know what these are:

1) Starts from a ledge near Rupley's Believe It Or Not. Ascends a tiered vertical face. From a distance looks 5.11.

2) Located on the backside of the Druid between Rupley's Believe It Or Not and Thingfish. Climbs a blank looking vertical or slightly overhung face. From a distance looks 5.12+. Jun 25, 2012
John Hayes
Bend, OR
John Hayes   Bend, OR
I just heard from the district forest ranger confirming that the concessionaires should not be charging anyone anything to simply pass through ANY campground on Mt. Lemon. Word has officially gone out so don't let anyone hassle you about paying a toll to get to a climbing area if you have to walk through a campground. Jun 28, 2011
John Hayes
Bend, OR
John Hayes   Bend, OR
This last Saturday (5/28/11) on our way to the Druid, Dave Jones and I were confronted by the Shower Point group-use area host and informed that he is collecting a $1.00 toll from everyone who passes through the area. He ultimately let us go without paying, so keep in mind that a little diplomacy goes a long way if you run into the same situation. I have written a letter to the district ranger questioning this activity. I don't believe that the concessionaires have any right to collect tolls from anyone who is merely trying to access public lands blocked by the fee use area--particularly when none of the facilities are even used. I understand that this same thing has occurred at the Rose Canyon area as well. I'll post a response when I hear back from the ranger. In the meantime, my advice is to keep a low profile when you hike through these areas. Jun 1, 2011
arjunmh
Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
arjunmh   Phoenix & Prescott, AZ
Very sweet, cool summer short wall that's fun for an afternoon in the shade. The 10+ route not listed just to the left of Lightning is super fun, with a crux midway up through a thin, steep section. Looked like an 8 from below, but crimpy once on it. The photo on this page shows the small roof at the bottom of the climb. Jun 15, 2009
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
Is there a new(unlisted) route between Grip(e)s and In Lightning? Aug 27, 2006
GDS
GDS  
Once again, 'Sparky speaks' the truth. Aug 4, 2006
Have to agree with Andy on this. Why would you assume it was a climber that camped there? Odds are it wasn't. Besides what climber would waste their money on Tecate and Coors. We know it wasn't Sparky! Jul 29, 2006
BFobar  
Today we hiked out to climb the druid but had to take a hour detour to find a ranger and enough water to put out a huge smoldering log at the fire pit at the top of the druid. Apparantly some climbers came out there saturday night and camped. While camp/climbing is fun, please remember the following:

1. follow posted guidelines for camp fires. (in this case it is a permit from the ranger station.)

2. Please put your fire out all the way. Please use good sense and not drag the bench logs into the fire and then leave.

3. Please pack your trash out. I do not appreciate having to make room to pack out another party's zillion cigarette buts, 8 beer cans (Tecate and Coors), and other miscalenous crap out of the fire pit and from the base of the climbs.

Most folks reading this will already know how to show respect to their fellow climbers and know where I'm coming from. As we were leaving the druid, a monsoon was breaking nearby, but going the other way, giving no moisture and 45mph winds. Had we not put that log out, it could have started a fire in one of the few areas that was relatively undamaged by the recent forest fires in the Catalinas. Jul 23, 2006
GPS coordinates N32.40555 W110.72532 7772 ft Jul 4, 2004
Be carefull during monsoon season! Storms here can drop over you in 5 minutes from blue skies. Been struck by lightning there on one occasion. We were lucky, but why push your luck!? Otherwise extremely fun climbing! Definately a classic Mt. Lemmon crag.James Higginson Feb 21, 2003

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