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Routes in Middle Wall

Abandonings S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Aboriginal Design S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Haiku S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Mass Wasting S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Relics S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Skynet T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Unknown 7 S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Andy Fitz, Ed Mosshart 1992
Page Views: 1,013 total · 14/month
Shared By: Jason McWalter on Jun 23, 2012
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

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9 Opinions

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description [Edit]

Long sustained route. Positive holds, the crux is at the roof.

Location [Edit]

First climb to the left of the pictograph.

Protection [Edit]

10 bolts, short chain on the edge of the roof, use longs draws to avoid rope drap from the roof

Photos

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ehhaole
Seattle, WA
 
ehhaole   Seattle, WA
 
There is a mini-crux somewhat below the roof, where the correct line is to climb directly up a steep arete (bolt not visible until you pull a move or two up the arete). Easy to get off route here, as there is a tempting bolt on another route to the left, and something sneaky looking to the right.

Use long draws below the roof, or it will be harder to clip the crux draw. May 5, 2014
A truly fantastic route, but, I'd say, a total sandbag at .11b. Expect many thought provoking sequences and a stout pull over the roof. Oct 16, 2016
Epic route. Definite sandbag. Apr 25, 2017
andyf
Tacoma, WA
 
andyf   Tacoma, WA
 
FA: Andy Fitz, Ed Mosshart 1992. I think it's a little longer than 75'. Apr 26, 2017
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
A brilliant line that makes for a challenging onsight especially if you're new to the area and style of climbing. Follow the chalk, but you'll find the sequences and movements remain engaging and hard to read even if the path is clear. Many flat edges allow the pump to build before the roof, where remarkable holds and an engaging crux guard the chains.

I wont comment on the sand bag, but I will say this 12a would get a lot of traffic in red rocks. (you may "knee"-d to have a no holds- "bar"ed approach to make this feel closer to 11b) Apr 30, 2018

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