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Routes in Frat Boy Wall

Duck and Cover S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fatman S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hiroshima S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nagasaki S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Natural, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unnamed S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Mike Snell, Tom Kalakay
Page Views: 1,796 total, 27/month
Shared By: Ty Morrison-Heath on Jun 20, 2012
Admins: grk10vq

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

The middle route on the top terrace, Fatman pulls through continuos pockets to reach its chain anchors. More an endurance fest than its neighbor The Natural I find Fatman to be a better climb. Watch out for the shithole (Literally a large hueco/pocket filled with droppings) and the water filled pockets at 2/3rd height.

Location

Middle route on the top terrace.

Protection

7 bolts to 2 bolt anchor

Photos

TKrock  
All,

Someone just sent me this link and I can't believe I'm commenting in one of these forums. They do, however, provide an effective way to communicate and inform people.

It appears that Mr. Stephens acts were mindless and, like many climbers these days, he has no knowledge or respect for the potential historical significance of a climb. Fatman and Fright Train were two of the earliest routes done at Bozeman Pass. They were originally done a quarter century ago. Their character and bolting style, reflects an age when the very first power drill was used by a Bozeman climber. We were just emerging from decades of drilling on lead with a hand drill and not yet accustomed to blasting in a bolt every five feet. Nonetheless the bolt placements on these climbs were well thought out and the climbs seemed safe enough. If 25 year old bolts are still being used on these routes, perhaps it is time to think about replacing them. In doing so, please respect and try to maintain the original character of the route. Contacting the first-ascentionist might also be a good idea.

Climbing styles and attitudes change or evolve with time, giving our sport a rich and interesting history. The next time you're about to selfishly bash in a bolt, let your dog burrow at the base of a climb, or attach a perma-draw to an established route, stop and consider the thoughts and efforts of climbers that came before you and those that will climb there in the future. Hopefully you'll change your mind.

Happy Climbing

TK Jul 11, 2013
leigh,
I would take photos tooo if I saw bolts that were falling out or broken. And yes leigh thats correct he took hangers and pounded in bolts. Really a bummer that some out of towner would do that tooo such awesome climbs!! Well thanks Joe and leigh, kevin and I will be up there tomorrow climbing.
Ethan Jul 11, 2013
Leigh Ann Spokas
Bozeman, MT
Leigh Ann Spokas   Bozeman, MT
So, what happened to all the hardware? Did he really take hardware from a local crag and leave? Wow. It seems that our friend may have removed all hangers and pounded in bolts from Fright Train as well. Joe and I will be up replacing ASAP. Jul 11, 2013
Leigh Ann Spokas
Bozeman, MT
Leigh Ann Spokas   Bozeman, MT
Very curious about the bolt breaking claim . . . pictures? Pretty damn sure I'd take a picture of that. Jul 10, 2013
Well did you clip bolts on any other lines. I believe that those bolts where fine considering I climb on that route all the time. Maybe before you travel to a new area go talk to some locals before you decide to clip bolts on a classic line. What was your reasoning for clipping them??? Jul 10, 2013
David Stephens
Superior AZ
David Stephens   Superior AZ
I just might have save your life! Jul 10, 2013