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North Face of The Mole
5.7 YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 2.6 from 9
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Routes in Hook Creek Drainage
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North Face of The Mole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Trad, Alpine, 500 ft (152 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Don Gordon, Pat Callis, Eric Bjornstad, Dan Davis 1962 |
| Page Views: | 5,358 total · 34/month |
| Shared By: | Shaun Johnson on May 21, 2012 |
| Admins: | Hangdog Hank, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Zachary Winters, Mitchell McAuslan |
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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
Each year, the USFS monitors for raptor nesting.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
A pair of golden eagles regularly nest on Bridge Creek Wall. When in effect, starting January 1, PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB or travel within 1/2 mile of Bridge Creek Wall. As a reference, the climb Condorphamine Addiction is just outside of this 1/2 mile buffer, and is OK to climb still. The closure extends through August 15, but there is active monitoring to determine if the seasonal closure can be lifted earlier.
In 2014, there was an active pair of peregrine falcons at Snow Creek Wall, but no official closure was put in effect due to the location of the falcons. The site will be continually monitored with changes or removal of closures updated as necessary.
Description
The Mole is the tallest of the quartet of spires and the second one from the left. The North Face is an amazing route with unique views of the Icicle and the Enchantmens. I felt there was not a stand out crux and the climbing throughout both pitches was consistent and very enjoyable.
The Climb originally took the left trending crack system after the first pitch. We took the Right and thought it was awesome.
There is a very empty summit log at the top waiting to get some new names on it!
The Climb originally took the left trending crack system after the first pitch. We took the Right and thought it was awesome.
There is a very empty summit log at the top waiting to get some new names on it!
Location
An easy sandy gully (or snow) leads to the base. Follow the obvious large crack system, at about 60 meters the route splits and both variations are 5.7.
Decent: there is an exciting 3-rappel descent to the East ending by the prominent chockstone chimney. all rappel stations are one bold with additional tat. Scramble down gully or make rappels back to base of the route.
Decent: there is an exciting 3-rappel descent to the East ending by the prominent chockstone chimney. all rappel stations are one bold with additional tat. Scramble down gully or make rappels back to base of the route.
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