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Routes in Little Devils Tower Area

Breakin and Shakin T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Conn Route T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 4 pitches
FA: Herb and Jan Conn July 4th 1954
Page Views: 390 total, 6/month
Shared By: AlPiNiSt10 on May 15, 2012
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

On July 1954 The Conn's agreed to climb the Northface of Little Devils Tower for a newspaper group. They originally had no intention of climbing it due to the fact that you can just walk off the back. The day before they had set pre-placed pitons to move things along. After a couple of pitches up the Conns gained a obvious ledge in which became known as, " The Balloon Ledge" because the Conns intended to float balloons off so that the reports could see their position. The 30 foot crux of the climb comes directly above this ledge. Huge route with great exposure. Like any Conn route its an adventure and takes good route finding skills. I found myself off route at times. The route ascends the Nose of Little Devils Tower. Climb up gully systems to gain the Balloon Ledge. Short face crux pitch leads to more gully systems above the ledge. Easier ledges and gullies lead to the summit. Summit pitch should end around the old spruce tree atop. There route for the most part has been lost. Try to follow up what information has been given. As stated before I got way off route.
Info: South Dakota Needles
The ADVENTURE CLIMBS OF HERB & JAN CONN by: Lindsay Stephen

Location

The Northface of Little Devils Tower. Huge Obvious face across from Harney Peak. The first time i scoped this out I took Little Devils Tower trail coming out of the granite crevasse in the path atop the strenuous hill. Hike down and around the base of the mountain. Tread Lightly!

Protection

standard rack.
Remember at the Time the Conns didn't have much but pitons. A rack is plenty from past experience on this wall.

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