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Routes in Cave Wall

Al on the Run S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Neruda T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Probaition T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Security T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Ron Halka, John Cotter, May 2nd 1983
Page Views: 138 total, 2/month
Shared By: Steve Rowen on Mar 10, 2012
Admins: Luc-514

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4 Opinions

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Respect designated paths ! Details
NCC Gatineau Park restrictions Details

Description

Located between Al on the Run and Neruda. It has been bolted, chopped and rebolted.

Location

Located between Al on the Run and Neruda

Protection

2 bolts and gear

Photos

Jfaub
Ottawa, On
  5.10d PG13
Jfaub   Ottawa, On
  5.10d PG13
Just sent this route today, and it's totally classic. Much taller than the 25ft suggested here, more like 50-55.

Gear Beta : 2 QD's, a .5 BD X4 (for the pod before the first bolt) and a .2 BD X4 in a small crack out left (if you want to protect the topout moves).

Definitely some sections where a fall would be best avoided (clipping the first bolt) ; also, there is huge whipper potential towards the top if you blow the slightly easier but sustained face climbing. That would a be a really big fall, but safe (probably?).

This might be 5.11-, (V2 after the first bolt?) but 5.10d is also fair.

This is what the 2008 Climbing around Ottawa topo has to say :

«Recently, a key hold broke down to about half it's original size, which makes the route considerably harder.» Sep 18, 2014
Short but tough, 25 ft, may need a little trad to go with bolts. about a 10.b Aug 31, 2014