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Routes in Lower Smoking Boulder

Cosmonaut V6 7A
Croft Problem V8 7B
Unnamed V1+ 5
Unnamed v7 V7 7A+
Type: Boulder, 10 ft
FA: Peter Croft?
Page Views: 767 total · 11/month
Shared By: Kevin Hadfield on Feb 22, 2012
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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15 Opinions

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Description

Begin on large holds down and right (same holds for Cos...). Bust left to good scoops and complete the middle sequence one of a number of ways... As long as it is going up, I think it counts. Gain a good right facing "ear" and either cross or bear down on the "slimper" to bust right to jugs and either a drop off finish or up flakes to the top of the boulder.

Location

West face of the boulder.

Protection

Mash mats...

Photos

Andy Liu
Eastern Sierra
 
Andy Liu   Eastern Sierra
 
Daniel Winsor  
  V6
The grade is really height/reach dependent. If you can span from the heuco (at about head height) up to the jug without having to use the slopey sidepull, it feels much easier, maybe V6. Even V6 seems generous when this line feels easier than Change of Heart and Pope's Prow around the corner..... but shorter climbers will absolutely be trying V8 hard. The topout is doable, and I'm usually a nazi about topping things out, but not this face. It's chossy, razor flakes. I'd save your skin for something else. Jan 4, 2016
Kevin Hadfield
New Castle, CO
 
Kevin Hadfield   New Castle, CO
 
The top out is amazing!! and a must do for the problems on this wall. 1 star with drop off, 3-4 with proper top out. Apr 17, 2014
Tim Steele
Bishop, CA.
Tim Steele   Bishop, CA.
The drop-off finish is lame and not really legit IMO. I don't know why Wills wrote it up in the guide that way. It's not any chossier than any other topout in the Milks. I wouldn't say that the finish chages the grade all that much (being V1 or so on its own), but it does make the problem better and more committing. Top it out! Dec 5, 2013
andy patterson
Carpinteria, CA
 
andy patterson   Carpinteria, CA  
 
Funny/humbling story:

After watching a climber do the moves, I put my shoes on, chalked up, and easily flashed this problem. Feeling pretty good about myself, I decided to explore some famous "moderates" around the Milks'. I landed on Birthday Direct, a classic V3.

In short: I had a mini-epic, and barely sent after like 40 tries.

I love rock-climbing. Apr 8, 2012