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Routes in Central Oaks Area

Beginners Luck V0- 4-
Death Row V2 5+
Dirty Bird V0-1 4+
First Distraction V3 6A
Forever on the Hips V3 6A
Hardened Criminal V4 6B
Phantom Crack? T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Simple Man V1 5
Tight & Light V6-7 7A+
Trundling Resistance V1 5
Undercover V0- 4-
Unnamed Crack/seam V1 5
Zone, The 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a V3+ 6A+
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,128 total, 16/month
Shared By: atp on Feb 11, 2012
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

Starting on left side of the merging two cracks, work through a series of O/W and hand cracks to reach the top.

Location

While on the central oaks trail go through underpass then look up and right.

Protection

small-large cams

Photos

erikr  
Very far apart. I think-
A- I have never explored this area.
B- haven't looked at this topo in a long time and made a poor assumption.
C- Am not even sure where I ever heard of Phanton Crack or why I decided I had found it.
D- The north slope burned and was completely clear in the early? 60's and has gotten thicker and thicker since.
E- That crack could be anywhere between Big Mac (which I'm not familiar with) and The Schoolyard.
F- If you want to climb a tall arching flare with splitter hands in the back and the other 3 climbs I mentioned... I would be happy to belay and can bring a drill for the thin dike up the center of a steep slab. Jun 5, 2012
atp
Clairemont Mesa, CA
 
atp   Clairemont Mesa, CA
 




I'm not to familar with the summit area, but that link you have looks like alot of work in mapping all those climbs.

It seems like the climb you mentioned #19 and this climb here are pretty far apart, this 87 guide says from longs crack (seminar wall area)you can reach big mac and from big mac you can reach phantom (in the picture above #21)... what do you think? maybe the 87 guide is not accurate? Jun 5, 2012
erikr  
What a coincidence I stumble across this a day after you post. To go to Phantom Crack go to the summit. On the north side of the road is the triangle shaped boulder under the pines. Just west of this boulder, maybe 40', go straight down the hill. The first boulder you hit on the left has a couple of aid climbs at least one of which will go free. From there you can see the Phantom Crack Boulder's backside, down hill and slightly right. Heading east from Phantom Crack there is a miniature version of Greg's Crack but lickeny and left side in, just after that there is a slab with a faint white dike which might deserve some bolts.

Edit, I have a map- it is #19. Greg should have the text which goes with it
maps.google.com/maps/ms?msi… Jun 4, 2012
atp
Clairemont Mesa, CA
 
atp   Clairemont Mesa, CA
 
I've been trying to figure out where phantom is and just can't put my finger on it. After some thought I changed the name and grade so as to keep respect for the climber who did FA phantom in case this was that route. Its still a great route and would encourage people to try and maybe we can get some consensus. Jun 4, 2012
atp
Clairemont Mesa, CA
 
atp   Clairemont Mesa, CA
 
Nope i haven't tried fall semester but it looks tough from the pic. I feel i've done a few woodson 5.9s to say its harder than that, I could see 5.10 for woodson maybe , but the question is where is big mac?... Feb 28, 2012
GregH
San Diego, CA
GregH   San Diego, CA
new level of sandbag eh? ever been on Fall Semester? : )
Andrew, looks like it still fits with Brueckners guide description (excepting the grade apparently). Horizontal from Big Mac, 4 star climb, hands/ squezze... 5.9 ish lol
I'll keep tinkering around, but it seems like a match. Feb 27, 2012
atp
Clairemont Mesa, CA
 
atp   Clairemont Mesa, CA
 
Thanks, ya it was a bit of work getting a usable trail through there!
Well I have no problem updating information on this climb if there is proof to show, I've talked to ron amick and he wasn't aware of anything there, greg horvath said there might be but he's still looking into it. I've looked in the san diego county guide and also Keith Brueckners woodson guide (not that they have everything in there) and didn't find anything (although phantom looked in the same direction) I'll continue to search for correct information and make changes if needed.

Thanks for the help and let me know if you find something Feb 18, 2012
dtomczik
Bishop, CA
dtomczik   Bishop, CA
I don't believe that this is Phantom Crack. However, I do believe this crack was climbed prior to your ascent. Nonetheless, nice job getting out there and then actually climbing it. It's a pretty neat clump of boulders out there. Feb 17, 2012
atp
Clairemont Mesa, CA
 
atp   Clairemont Mesa, CA
 
Interesting I wouldn't be suprised its already been climbed :)
The locals I've asked didn't know of any established climbs in that area and I didn't see any signs of a trail to get there or any of the other climbs near it and it wasn't exactly a boulder you just walk up to. As for 5.9, if thats true then woodson reached a new level of sandbag...
Feb 16, 2012
Mark K  
I'm pretty sure this is Phantom Crack (5.9), FA'd b.i.t.d. Feb 16, 2012