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Routes in (p) The Fun Factory

Assembly Line S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Fun Factory T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Industrial Bliss S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Made To Order S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Manufacturer's Defect S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Mass Production S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Nuts and Bolts S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Planned Obsolescence S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Quality Control S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Six Sigma Certified S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Some Assembly Required S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Structural Flaw S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Union Man S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Worker Bee S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 45 ft
FA: Louie Anderson (2011)
Page Views: 2,186 total, 31/month
Shared By: tinyonion on Feb 6, 2012
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Climbs up on natural and manufactured holds up the right facing ramp/crack system. Lots of different fun movements make this climb the best at the quarry for the grade. The crux lies a little bit after the 5th bolt where it joins up with the climb to the right. To clean it top rope the other end up and un-clip as you go.

Anchors are shared with the 5.9 to the right so you can setup a toprope for that climb via this route.

Location

Starts on the slab section in the rust colored area to the far left of the main wall. Follows the obvious line up to the anchors.

Protection

7 bolts to a two bolt anchor with rappel rings.
Chan Shin
  5.10a/b R
Chan Shin  
  5.10a/b R
there are multiple holds on this climb that are loose. for a 5.7 i found this climb to be more difficult than the 5.10's on the right of this route. had i read the most recent comments i would not have even attempted this route. Jun 8, 2017
Confirming that the 3rd bolt is now missing. The route from 2nd bolt to 4th bolt is quite a long run out-- be careful. Lots of holds appear to be missing as of April 2, 2017. After 2nd bolt you will notice a lot of broken and loose rocks lying around. Apr 3, 2017
It seems like the people who did this before me had more of an issue with loose rock than I did. Lead it and a few friends did laps on it and nothing seemed to be coming off, it seems everything loose has already gotten pulled off.

That said it did feel quite stiff for 5.7 perhaps due to the decreased number of holds, overall a very fun/challenging climb for the grade that I'd recommend to anyone in that range. Again, not saying it didn't use to have problems but I was there a few days ago and everything seemed A-Ok. Feb 27, 2017
steveloh  
 
Avoid this climb. The rating made it seem like it was a great warmup or lead practice. Like Ben Cromwell explained, the holds on this are unreliable. We had 2 separate climbers (not newbies either) pull off huge rock chunks. The kind which shake the earth when they explode on impact with the ground. Almost seriously injured the belayers below. I think the climb is pretty different now from the guidebook description. Some holds look glue-reinforced, which only makes them even sketchier. Don't trust.

If you're a belayer on this, wear a helmet. My advice is skip it. Oct 30, 2016
Ben Crowell  
 
I'm the person who was hurt on April 23. Guy Dadson, who commented a few days ago, was my climbing partner. We've compared notes a little more now, and I think I can put together a more accurate description of what was going on.

First, I think the third bolt is now missing. Possibly whatever it was attached to has now fallen off. After the second bolt, I noticed that there was quite a long run-out to what I thought was the third bolt. I spent some time looking for another bolt, and couldn't find one, so I just went ahead and ran it out.

Second, there was a glued hold right below what I now know is the fourth bolt. It was a toaster-sized rock glued into a crevice. It had chalk on it, and using it seemed to be the only way to make the climb go at 5.7. I pounded on it, and it seemed solid, so I went ahead and put my full body weight on it, and it came off.

With hindsight, I wish I had looked at this page rather than the guidebook. This comment by The Billy Goat in January was a nearly perfect prediction of what happened to me: "Some holds seem to be glued on. I didn't really like this route for two reasons. 1st, the holds felt fragile, someday some belayer is gonna get a rock on their head and someone is gonna take a nice lil whipper."

I suppose I'm biased, but I rated this route as a bomb due to the loose rock and unreliable glued holds. Apr 28, 2016
The Billy Goat
fontana,ca
 
The Billy Goat   fontana,ca
 
Some holds seem to be glued on. I didn't really like this route for two reasons. 1st, the holds felt fragile, someday some belayer is gonna get a rock on their head and someone is gonna take a nice lil whipper. 2nd, the wrap station is awkwardly placed on the lip of a rock over hanging the route. Is a little bit of a reach if you're short. It also seems fragile, it's just not a good placement. Jan 12, 2016
Countzen Shin
Santa Monica, CA
  5.7
Countzen Shin   Santa Monica, CA
  5.7
chossy. Seriously, had my GF lead this, since its a 5.7 as a warm up, and we were both pulling rocks off and tossing it down hill following the bolt line. Dec 5, 2015
Phil Esra  
 
More fun than Industrial Bliss or Worker Bee. Really surprisingly fun for the grade. Great sunny warm-up. Dec 21, 2013
C Miller
CA
  5.9 R
C Miller   CA  
  5.9 R
A bit scrappy but it does climb the easiest path through some interesting terrain. Worth doing at least once to marvel at the rock engineering. Mar 18, 2012
tinyonion  
 
I went lower with my feet in the seam near the bottom of the beta picture and my hands near the bolt line. It's a pretty solid way to do it but not as secure as going up with the underclings I would imagine. There is also a glued in bridge between the third and fourth bolt that should probably not be stepped on. Feb 21, 2012
andiran h.  
 
Some of the flakes to the left that you'd want to undercling between the first and second bolts are loose. I should have marked them. A brush would be helpful--still kind of dirty (due to being newer and/or recent rainfall). Feb 20, 2012