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Routes in Glen Canyon

Broken Bow Arch T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cheesebox, The T Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c
Chimney Rock C0+
Don't Do That Spire T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c A0 R
Giant Vagina, The T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Hole-lee Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Middle Finger Tower, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A3-
Sandcastle, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
Tower Butte T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a A1+
Type: Trad, 200 ft
FA: John Middendorf, early 90's
Page Views: 882 total, 12/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Nov 26, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Climbing restrictions and closures Details
Climbing regulations are in effect. Details

Description

This is a short, loose, uninspiring climb up a cool formation in the middle of nowhere. It’s a fun diversion and another summit (and a funky one at that) to tick if you’re on your way to Mexican Hat.

Though total height gained on the route is a couple hundred feet, there's only 30 or 40 feet of actual climbing.

The approach is the crux.

Getting There

Drive south from Hanksville for ~74.8 miles (between mile markers 74 and 75) on Highway 95 and turn left (north) on a faint dirt road. Drive it as far as you feel comfortable; the trailhead is about .4 miles up the dirt road, so walking it isn’t a big deal. At the end of the dirt road (where it overlooks White Canyon and you have a clear view of The Cheesebox), you’ll find a trailhead marked with a few cairns.

Approach, Climb, and Descent

APPROACH

Follow the cairns and faint trail down and left. If you lose the trail, look for cairns. You should always be able to see the next cairn or section of trail. The trail will then cut right for a while as it parallels the canyon and some cliff bands. The trail (or cairns) will then cut down through the cliff band you’ve been walking above and head back left (parallel to the canyon but in the opposite direction you were just going). Going through the cliff band will require some easy class 3ish scrambling. Pay attention to this point, as it’s easy to miss on the way back. You might want to take a picture of the turn and surrounding area so that you don’t miss it.

The trail will take you down to the bottom of White Canyon, right where Cheesebox Canyon comes in to meet it. (There usually is no water flowing in the canyon, though you might see isolated pools and potholes.) At the right side of the mouth of Cheesebox Canyon you’ll see some large bushes. Head toward the bushes and you’ll reach a small corner with a log or two propped up in it. Climb up it.

You’ll now need to head right, looking for weaknesses in the cliff bands above you. So you don’t get lost on your way back, you might want to make your own cairns through this section if you don’t see any others. I had to do a 5th class mantle to make it through the final cliff band to the canyon rim.

Now just head toward The Cheesebox. There is a ton of cryptobiotic soil everywhere, so the going will be slow as you do your best to avoid it. Try to stick to the shallow streambeds. The route goes up the side of The Cheesebox that faces away from you as you’re approaching the formation. See beta photo to locate the route.

THE CLIMB

Scramble 10’ up a 4th class section, then walk right to the smooth slab of the 4th class traverse section. After the slab, you’ll be facing the short corner that leads to the top. Gingerly climb past the choss at the bottom to the better rock at the crux. Use nice incut edges to get on top.

Hike up the slope to the funky summit block. A few 4th/5th class moves and you’re on top.

DESCENT

Downclimb the summit block and hike back down to where the lower climbing section topped out. If you brought a rope, rappel 60’ from a solid bush. Otherwise, downclimb the route.

Protection

Experienced climbers will feel comfortable soloing and then downclimbing the route. Another option is to solo up and rappel down (there is a large bush with a couple slings around it). Otherwise a rope and a few small (tips to off-fingers) cams should protect the crux moves. Just know that the rock is crumbly and the cams might not hold.

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Yep, I sure did use your beta for this route and have for some other trips, too (namely U-Turn Canyon and Parriott Mesa). I often find yours and other people's beta incomplete at best and inaccurate at worst, as others likely find mine. Tis the nature of beta and the benefit of having multiple writeups and descriptions. Apr 25, 2012
RoadTripRyan
Salt Lake City, UT
RoadTripRyan   Salt Lake City, UT
Tristan:
I think you used my route description. ( ajroadtrips.com/go/t/utah/c… ) You seem to be doing a lot of the trips from my site these days.

It was traditionally rated 5.5 in the Desert Rock guidebook I have. Could definitely be soloed, but the rock is poor. A few pieces seem prudent for moderate leaders. I know of at least 2 groups that went to the base without gear, and backed off. Apr 25, 2012
Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
 
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
 
Regarding the rating... I read somewhere online that this climb was 5.5 (and the guy used ropes and gear on it). Since desert 5.5 can be like local crag 5.9++, I took a rope and light rack with me to the base of the route. Once I saw the climb, though, I dumped them and soloed up and down the thing. I’m not a particularly bold soloist, but I felt comfortable with it. The rock's a bit crumbly, but the climbing is super easy.

Also, I got slightly lost in White Canyon on the way to AND from The Cheesebox. Make sure you pay attention to where you’re going...

More pics, a TR, and a one page printable PDF with all the beta on it here.

Also, topo maps refer to the thing as The Cheesebox. A sign on the road pointing to it calls it Cheese Box Mesa (or Butte). Desert Rock IV calls it The Cheese Box.

And it's not actually located in Glen Canyon National Recreation Area, but between GCNRA and Valley of the Gods. Nov 27, 2011