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Routes in Right Wall

Bio-fear S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Finger Crack (TRAD) T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Fool's Gold S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Nemosis S,TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Resurrection TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: Gabriel Crawford
Page Views: 513 total, 7/month
Shared By: Nathan Menge on Oct 24, 2011
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Private Land Details

Description

Start down in the gap referred to as the grave.

Move up a deep flake to a high left crimp.

Now you are in the crux, bump off the matching, but lower quality, corresponding right crimp to a high quality high ledge. A fall here has a real chance of colliding with the boulder behind you. But when you succeed, the crux is over.

Move up into the big crack and work your way under, around and on to the large outcropping rock, called the tombstone.

There are several variations available, the most obvious being the crack next to the tombstone or you can pop out onto the face of the tombstone.

Climb up by any variation, on to a ledge.

From here work the toe pocket on the left and the pockets on the overhang face and top out.

Location

Route is located on the arete portion of the wall to the right of the right wall. (the righter wall)

Look for a tree bent over the rocks.

Protection

There is very little close by to build a top rope anchor with. I use about 80 feet of webbing to build two anchor points as described below.

With your back to the climb, there is a short roughly 6" diameter tree a few feet back on the right, immediately above a cliff face.

To the left there is a trail leading down the hill, follow it around 60 feet and find a fantastic tree that is relatively free of thorns in its vicinity. Use this as a second anchor tree.

The belayer can anchor to the bent over tree that sits in the right wall area.

There is a dangerous fall from at the crux, where the climber could collide with the boulder behind him/her. During climb development we stuck a crash pad there, but it is possible to avoid with strong belaying.

Photos

Tim Anderson
Acme, PA
  5.9 PG13
Tim Anderson   Acme, PA
  5.9 PG13
Trad route. Decent gear low, Less than ideal higher up. Jul 15, 2012