Avg: 2.5 from 4 votes
|Type:||TR, 40 ft|
|Page Views:||513 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Nathan Menge on Oct 24, 2011|
|Admins:||Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp|
Private Land Details
Popular belief is that the rocks are on State Gamelands 51 while the trail and parking are on private property. According to the map on the Game Commission Website pgc.state.pa.us/pgc/game/ma…, the northern boundary of the gamelands does not start until the Casparis area (south of Breakneck). The land is actually owned by a private company, possibly logging. Regardless, the locals seem to be friendly and do not cause much fuss. Ensure that it stays this way by packing out your trash and do not block any of the roads with your vehicle.
DescriptionStart down in the gap referred to as the grave.
Move up a deep flake to a high left crimp.
Now you are in the crux, bump off the matching, but lower quality, corresponding right crimp to a high quality high ledge. A fall here has a real chance of colliding with the boulder behind you. But when you succeed, the crux is over.
Move up into the big crack and work your way under, around and on to the large outcropping rock, called the tombstone.
There are several variations available, the most obvious being the crack next to the tombstone or you can pop out onto the face of the tombstone.
Climb up by any variation, on to a ledge.
From here work the toe pocket on the left and the pockets on the overhang face and top out.
LocationRoute is located on the arete portion of the wall to the right of the right wall. (the righter wall)
Look for a tree bent over the rocks.
ProtectionThere is very little close by to build a top rope anchor with. I use about 80 feet of webbing to build two anchor points as described below.
With your back to the climb, there is a short roughly 6" diameter tree a few feet back on the right, immediately above a cliff face.
To the left there is a trail leading down the hill, follow it around 60 feet and find a fantastic tree that is relatively free of thorns in its vicinity. Use this as a second anchor tree.
The belayer can anchor to the bent over tree that sits in the right wall area.
There is a dangerous fall from at the crux, where the climber could collide with the boulder behind him/her. During climb development we stuck a crash pad there, but it is possible to avoid with strong belaying.