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Routes in Electric Avenue

Dogleg T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Electric Avenue T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fido S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Frau Bluka S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Same Place Different Girlfriend S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Spot S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Young Frankenstein S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Dave Bingham, 88
Page Views: 547 total, 7/month
Shared By: Boissal on Sep 29, 2011
Admins: grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle

You & This Route


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Description

Spot climbs an immaculate shield of red patina on perfect crimps (read: small and sharp) to a heartbreaking finish with barely any holds. Lots of climbing packed in the short 60' of this excellent route, felt hard for 11a.

Start by scampering up a ramp that quickly turns vertical and devious. A small cam can ease your mind as you transition onto the face, clip the 1st bolt and pull a burly crux on patina edges to establish on a ledge. Clip the 2nd bolt and launch up a parallel set of vertical edges that just don't want to feel very good. Another bolt and a puzzling transition onto the now blank face to the left brings you to the dreaded dyno. Either launch up and immediately plummet down (gravity is a bitch) or carefully milk sharp edges and high feet to get to decent crimps and a bolt. Gather yourself and figure out the puzzling crux finish: reach into a small roof way up and left or invent a hold straight up and make something happen. Either way, you might pitch 6" from the chains...

Location

Spot is the rightmost route on Electric Avenue and climbs along the right skyline of the formation. Beautiful at sunset although the rock radiates enough heat to get you sunburnt. Morning shade.

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchors. Optional small cam before the 1st bolt.
The last bolt and anchors are shared with the route to the left (Fido). Scary TR as the route traverses left a ways and the bolts are spaced. Scraping fall guaranteed.

Photos

Flacker
Lander, WY
 
Flacker   Lander, WY
 
not quite sure where the dyno was...? but great route Jun 12, 2015
greg t
Chevy, Silverado
greg t   Chevy, Silverado
Good route, def worth doing. Maybe I was doing it all wrong, but I didnt have to dyno at all ( I'm 5'9" ) and there is a huge jug 6" below the chains. Jun 26, 2014