Avg: 2.8 from 16 votes
|Type:||Sport, 60 ft|
|FA:||Dave Bingham, 88|
|Page Views:||550 total · 7/month|
|Shared By:||Boissal on Sep 29, 2011|
|Admins:||grk10vq, WAGbag, Mike Engle|
DescriptionSpot climbs an immaculate shield of red patina on perfect crimps (read: small and sharp) to a heartbreaking finish with barely any holds. Lots of climbing packed in the short 60' of this excellent route, felt hard for 11a.
Start by scampering up a ramp that quickly turns vertical and devious. A small cam can ease your mind as you transition onto the face, clip the 1st bolt and pull a burly crux on patina edges to establish on a ledge. Clip the 2nd bolt and launch up a parallel set of vertical edges that just don't want to feel very good. Another bolt and a puzzling transition onto the now blank face to the left brings you to the dreaded dyno. Either launch up and immediately plummet down (gravity is a bitch) or carefully milk sharp edges and high feet to get to decent crimps and a bolt. Gather yourself and figure out the puzzling crux finish: reach into a small roof way up and left or invent a hold straight up and make something happen. Either way, you might pitch 6" from the chains...