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Routes in Atomic Energy Crag

Finger Fusion T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mushroom Cloud T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pick Pocket S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pocket Change S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Rancho Deluxe T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Doug Berry/ Charlie Fowler
Page Views: 1,224 total, 16/month
Shared By: Jesse Zacher on Sep 23, 2011
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

For most folks, the crux is off the ground with the wide hands crack. The rock is rough! Once past the wide bit, it becomes easier and has some cool movements following the crack under and to the right of the roof.

Location

This is around the corner, to the right of Finger Fusion. It is the obvious, wide hands splitter.

Protection

#3 for the start. A couple hand-sizes and fingers for the rest.

Photos

Nick Niebuhr
Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
Nick Niebuhr   Santa Fe, NM
  5.9
That vertical cupped hands crack seems a bit harder than 5.8.... I used 2x #1-3 and 1x #4. Couldn't find anywhere to stick anything smaller, maybe you'd get a loose-ish 0.75 somewhere on the traverse though. Could use more #3s if you feel the need to sew it up. May 21, 2017
Jason S.
Durango, Co
 
Jason S.   Durango, Co
 
No finger gear for this one, just thin hand to maybe one fist-sized cam. Oct 10, 2011