Type: Sport, 125 ft
FA: Tod Anderson
Page Views: 915 total · 10/month
Shared By: richard magill on Sep 19, 2011
Admins: Mike Snyder, Jake Dickerson, Taylor Spiegelberg

You & This Route


19 Opinions

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Description

This route has a similar profile to Smith's famed Chain Reaction, but this route is way juggy and about twice as long. Holy Moly is this a long route!

A bunch of super fun climbing leads up the steepness to a crux at about 90 feet: the crux isn't a 5.12 move (probably 11) but by the time you hit the crux, the pump is deep in your veins!

Why not 4 stars? One, the whole buttress is a bit crumbly compared to the routes up at Mondo Beyondo. And two, the final 35 feet just aren't as good as the first 90 feet. Finally, if you have been paying attention to the math, you can't do this route with a single 70M rope - it is too long. So you either have to trail a rope or if you fail to do that you will have to do a messy leaver biner rappel OR potentially a funky double rap/lower using the midpoint anchors on the route to the left. Acck!

All this needs to jump to a 4 star route is an anchor just after the crux, say at about 95 feet, and a little traffic to clean things up. Any civic-minded bolters out there, this would be a great service! Make sure you add the anchors AFTER the crux (just under the little roof would be good) and it won't change the grade at all.

This a really fun line!

Location

On the sharp overhanging arete on the right side of the buttress.

Protection

About 25 bolts to anchors at 125 feet. Bring 2 ropes! You won't get down with a single 70 M.

Photos

richard magill
  5.12a
richard magill  
  5.12a
Wow, is my memory going! I helped bolt this route (in 1997?) with Tod Anderson, Ernie Moscovics, and Tom Hanson, as I recall. I knew it was long but I didn't remember how long this line is.

Went back there this fall with the wife and thought I could do it with a 70 M rope and only 18 draws. Sport Climbing Epic!

Ran out of draws (after the crux, thankfully) near the top and started skipping clips and using single biners to clip (obviously I subconsciously knew that was coming because I had several biners on my harness). Realized I couldn't get down without some shenanigans, as we only had one rope. Not a good feeling, to be well over 100 ft up, no anchors in site, knowing I can't lower and I am out of draws!

Thankfully lowered off the midpoint anchors on "If Dreams were Thunder" and was able to get my stuff off the route without too much drama.

Funny, normally when you get in this situation, you think "what madman bolted this thing"? But you don't normally answer that with, "oh yeah, I'm the madman"! Sep 19, 2011
Abe Dubs
Bozeman, Montana
 
Abe Dubs   Bozeman, Montana
 
Awesome route!

Climbed this with a 70m rope but be aware that you can't clean the route on lower/rappel with a 70m. When I lowered, with rope stretch I could just touch my toes to the ground, far from the start of the climb. To clean the route, my partner belayed from the spot I had just lowered to and I top roped it, cleaning as I climbed. Knot the ends of your rope! Sep 28, 2014
Dan Brayack
Marmet, WV
Dan Brayack   Marmet, WV
I got down with a trimmed 70m rope no problem. (About ten feet trimmed off.) With rope stretch. Make sure you always tie a knot in the end of your rope! I was also able to clean as I lowered. I didn't clip the first two bolts though. Jul 6, 2015
Curt MacNeill
Boulder, CO
 
Curt MacNeill   Boulder, CO
 
Very long and fun route. Rock is a bit muddy looking but otherwise a great climb. The climb could be as soft as 11b/c so if your not quite a 5.12 climber, this could be a great first. I had fun on this one..... Aug 18, 2015
ChiHarris
Portland, OR
  5.11c/d
ChiHarris   Portland, OR
  5.11c/d
Super fun climbing on juggy rock. As others have voiced, it's a couple letter grades soft for the grade. exposure on the arete is fantastic! Takes 20 draws plus anchors (currently two biners on anchors). It take a WHOLE 70m rope to get down. The only way to clean it is on top rope, so plan on that. Aug 21, 2015
Taylor Spiegelberg
Lander & Sheridan, WY
 
Taylor Spiegelberg   Lander & Sheridan, WY  
 
This thing is a super fun trip. It just keeps going and going and going..... found myself wondering what I was doing up so high haha. ANYWAYS! Heres the best way to do it!- Prepare for a lot of better than average CHOSSAINEERING! Use long draws or alpine draws for the first few clips, easy jug haul, then back clean a couple of funky roofs towards the top. This made rope drag almost non existent to my surprise. Lowering off with a 70M works PERFECTLY (knot it)! Don't let the rope fly away in the wind or you will be fu&%#d! Have a homie TR it and enjoy the ride! Not a single 12 move, more like a long 11b. Jun 1, 2016
Eric Hirst  
 
This is straightforward to clean if you have an 80m rope. Fun if you don't mind the choss factor. Sep 11, 2016