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Routes in Shinobe

Baked Potato S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dancing Katchinas S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Desperately Seeking Oxygen S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Detachment S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Effigy S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Last of the Mohicans S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
No more Mr. nice guy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Screaming Banshees S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Stolen Thunder S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Tin Man S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Winds of Change, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Zach Bradford
Page Views: 366 total, 5/month
Shared By: ZachBradford on Aug 26, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

The route is an old abandoned route that was bolted several years ago. I had left the route alone for several years because their was a red tag. I took the red tag off last spring because it had turned white due to sun bleaching and no one had ever returned to give it any attention. I spent two full sessions cleaning the route. Their was A LOT of loose Rock. If you get off route you may still encounter some so I recommend a helmet for your belayer.

You get into the crux of the route about 8 feet up the wall and it doesn't let up until you have clipped the 4th bolt(25 ft). The crux requires powerful committing moves on small but mostly positive holds (V6ish). After pulling the roof you find an awkward but decent place to catch a shake. Continue through a few more bolts of good 5.11 climbing (35+ feet). Last 15 ft of the route is a bit disappointing as the route was bolted with the idea of creating a 3 pitch route. So the climbing turns into a 5.9 traverse to the anchors. I recommend back cleaning the traverse after sending, then lowering off a carabiner.

I tried to make the description detailed so anyone can come prepared. So if it sounds a bit intense its really not too bad. The route climbs well and is well worth the effort.

The upper pitches need a lot of cleaning and probably an additional bolt or two. I am unable to dedicate the time into tackling such a large project. I was pleased to have freed the first pitch. If someone takes the time to clean the upper pitches it would make for a great and difficult multi-pitch route.

Location

the route is found in the cave located on the far west side of the formation. Hike up the trail to access the main group of routes then traverse the cliff until just before rounding the far corner. You will see a cave above a class 4 scramble. Their are 2 routes, this route is the one on the right.

Protection

Bolts and Rap anchors

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