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Routes in Mern

Death Flake Arete T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Chris Pelczarsk & Nicole Uhre, June 17th, 2011
Page Views: 119 total, 2/month
Shared By: Tater Tot on Jul 7, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

Climb the arete on the east side of the spire. Generally, the rock is of beautiful quality with almost nothing likely to break except for a couple dubious flakes. One was removed and the other has become known as the Death Flake. Watch out for it on the left hand side of the route about a third of the way up! It is possible to climb around it on the right then step back left to good holds just above the Death Flake as was done on the first ascent.

Protection

3 fixed pitons, at least one large cam (4 or 5) to protect the wide crack at the bottom, and a few small cams and nuts. Rappel off summit from a new two bolt anchor. One rope down south face.
SThal
Logan, UT
 
SThal   Logan, UT
 
Great route. It had me waffling a few times. I thought the key gear was 00 c3 size or 5-6 bd nut size. Jun 26, 2017