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Routes in A. Royal Arches Wall

Archangel S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Blood Beets S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Deetle Dumps S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Gully T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ebee S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hunters Arrow T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Inner Pitbull S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Ketex S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Meanest Flower, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
My Head is Broke S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
No Dancers T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
No Dogs Allowed S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Pete's Lead T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smidgin S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Sunflower S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Tina's Soul Food Kitchen S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Umbrella Girls S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Vow, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Jim Thurmond, Hunter Rafferty
Page Views: 812 total, 10/month
Shared By: Nick Scott on May 30, 2011
Admins: Chris treggE, Dave Hug

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Description

This is a fun route especially on lead. The guide book says that it is a 5.10a but I would give it a 5.9 just because the main face is mostly slab with great stances and plenty of places to rest. Also I climbed this when the rock was wet inside the crack and it was still an easy climb for me. The crux is at the very top when you have to pull around and behind the prominent point.
The only bad thing about the route is that rope drag is almost unavoidable especially if you're setting a TR.

Location

This is the first large dihedral crack on the Royal Arch wall

Protection

This crack uses a range of different cam sizes. I used (2) #2, (1) #1, and (1) .75 BD Camalots along with a #1 metolius master cam and a .5 link cam. There are also two bolts at the top for anchors. no chains

Photos

Jon Richard
St. Louis, Missouri
Jon Richard   St. Louis, Missouri
Jon Richard
St. Louis, Missouri
Jon Richard   St. Louis, Missouri