Type: Sport, 130 ft
Page Views: 241 total · 3/month
Shared By: Jimbo on May 25, 2011
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

14 Opinions

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The best pitch at the Boneyard by far.

The climbing is fun, sustained, steep and airy.

Can be done as one pitch with a 70 meter rope. You can then lower far enough down the slabby pitch to easily down climb, or stop at the first anchor, then pull the rope and rap.


Starts up the right hand side of the low angle slabs. 3 bolts on easy climbing to first anchors.
Old tat on the first set of anchors has been replaced with quick links and beaners.


Bolts, Chains


Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Kind of chossy. Jul 17, 2011
Lots of air under your feet, nice route. Belay bolts look a little old. 10d Jul 3, 2013
Ryan and Jesse Morse-Brady   Lander, WY
Some pretty large rocks came down off the top pitch, to the left of the bolt line today. Almost decked a few people. If you're going to climb this, please consider bringing enough helmets for everyone in the group.

Also, the left anchor was a bit loose. I would have tightened it, but didn't have a wrench and it was about to rain. Aug 24, 2013
Phoenix, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.10+ PG13
Helmets mandatory! Pulled off multiple fist sized holds in the bolt line. Foot holds were crumbling as I went up and a great deal of the rock was visibly loose or suspiciously hollow. Rock quality detracted from the route. Jul 27, 2014
Sam Thompson
Tucson, AZ
Sam Thompson   Tucson, AZ
Felt and looked like critical holds had pulled halfway up the '2nd' pitch. Lots of the brown varnish that makes up the majority of crimps was visibly crumbled away. Major jump in grade difficulty about 4 bolts past the first anchors. Jul 23, 2017
Justin Headley
Justin Headley   Tucson
Based off the comments, it does seem like some important holds have probably broken off, but there's still enough there to climb it at a reasonable grade. I'd believe the 2nd pitch is a sustained 10d or 11a, as long as you don't try to just go straight up the bolt line. Really cool movement on it. Makes me want to get back in shape so I can send it. Anchors could use an update. They're old, rusty cold shuts. Jul 4, 2018
Jeff Gicklhorn
Tucson, AZ
Jeff Gicklhorn   Tucson, AZ
Don't know if I would call this the best route at the Boneyard, but it's pretty damn good. I placed mussy hooks on both anchors as of 9/30/18 to facilitate getting off the route, but the top anchor definitely needs replacing. Oct 2, 2018