Type: Sport, 190 ft (58 m)
FA: JSt, EFR, Justin Manring,'11
Page Views: 951 total · 6/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 25, 2011
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route


5 Opinions
Your To-Do List: Add To-Do ·
Your Star Rating:
Rating Rating Rating Rating Rating      Clear Rating
Your Difficulty Rating:
-none- Change
Your Ticks:Add New Tick
-none-
Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.

Description Suggest change

70M ROPE REQUIRED A long and winding route that takes a lifetime to get up. Really cool to do as one long pitch just be sure you are not using those silly little dogbones or the rope drag will make the top really unpleasant. Can be done as two pitches but it is really cool to do it as one. Be sure to use long (not quite shoulder length) draws at the two bolts below the big roof to reduce rope drag. After the first set of anchors do not be afraid to wander way left to keep this climb in the grade. The climb wanders way way left then up then way back to the right to surmount the roof at the right apex. Tricky to figure out but really good when you do. You can also do the first pitch as it is a good warm-up for the crag and is probably 10-.

We had two ropes so Jim fixed it and rapped off so I could lead it on the other. If you have only one rope carry your rap device and do two raps to the ground then your buddy can do the same and clean it on the way down.

Location Suggest change

The center of the lower angle amphitheater between Bon Ami and Master Blaster. Starts on a ledge about 20 feet up. Climb face just right of a small right facing dihedral.

Protection Suggest change

22 Qickdraws a couple of 18 inch or longer for the two bolts below the big roof. Do not do it with short dogbones.

Photos

loading