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Routes in Boneyard

Bad To The Bone S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Bone Ami T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bone Spur S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Buried Alive S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Chilled to the Bone S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Cryptographer S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Drag Queen LaTufa S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Funny Bone S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Grave New World S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Grave Robber S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
It's A Wanderful Life S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Jug or Not S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Layed to Rest S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Little Trundle Of Joy S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Master Blaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Modern Relic T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Nail in My Coffin S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
No Brainer S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Prince Brushing S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pro Bone-O S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Six Feet Under S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Skeleton Key S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Soaked to the Bone S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sweeping Beauty S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Throw Me a Bone S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Tibial Pursuit S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Tombstone Tourist S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Unearth Thee Delights S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
When The Whip Comes Down S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 190 ft
FA: JSt, EFR, Justin Manring,'11
Page Views: 155 total, 2/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 25, 2011
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

70M ROPE REQUIRED A long and winding route that takes a lifetime to get up. Really cool to do as one long pitch just be sure you are not using those silly little dogbones or the rope drag will make the top really unpleasant. Can be done as two pitches but it is really cool to do it as one. Be sure to use long (not quite shoulder length) draws at the two bolts below the big roof to reduce rope drag. After the first set of anchors do not be afraid to wander way left to keep this climb in the grade. The climb wanders way way left then up then way back to the right to surmount the roof at the right apex. Tricky to figure out but really good when you do. You can also do the first pitch as it is a good warm-up for the crag and is probably 10-.

We had two ropes so Jim fixed it and rapped off so I could lead it on the other. If you have only one rope carry your rap device and do two raps to the ground then your buddy can do the same and clean it on the way down.

Location

The center of the lower angle amphitheater between Bon Ami and Master Blaster. Starts on a ledge about 20 feet up. Climb face just right of a small right facing dihedral.

Protection

22 Qickdraws a couple of 18 inch or longer for the two bolts below the big roof. Do not do it with short dogbones.

Photos

K-Tanz
Phoenix, AZ
  5.11d
K-Tanz   Phoenix, AZ
  5.11d
I think. 11+ is appropriate here. The crux is in your face and difficult and exiting the roof is no cake walk. The rest of the climb is straightforward and fun. First pitch could make a good warmup. Quality route! Jul 27, 2014
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I didn't onsight, messed up the beta at the crux. Once Jim gave me some tips felt like about mid 11. Will add to the ratings even though I haven't gone back to tick it.

PS Got on this again a couple of years later and missed a hold at the crux again.

If you want it to feel like low 11, it's probably better to do as two pitches. Even if you manage to completely eliminate the rope drag by using all 25 cm quickdraws, doing it as one pitch is probably gonna feel at least a letter grade or two harder just because of the weight of the rope. May 17, 2014
Thanks for the input. If more people would do so we could get an idea what the grade should be. Sep 30, 2013
Dj telle
Tucson, Arizona
5.11a/b
Dj telle   Tucson, Arizona
5.11a/b
good climb. crux was tricky but not too bad to figure out. Idk about the 11+ rating though Sep 29, 2013
Jimbo  
Oops, Clay on sited this route. May 26, 2013
Jimbo  
Jesse Shultz on sighted this route a few weeks ago and he led it as one pitch. May 8, 2013
Appears that this route is harder than we thought as it has yet to be onsighted. Could be that they are not taking the hint found in the name. Left farther left would be a better name. Even with that there is some pretty tricky footwork at the crux which is also creating air time for many. Nov 1, 2011
Jimbo  
Did this again today but did it in two pitches. Rope drag was a non issue this way. If you have a problem with a bit of rope drag when you climb I would recommend doing this route in two pitches. Oct 21, 2011