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Routes in Orangutan Wall

Angel's Share, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blackberry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creampuff S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Feed The Monkey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Touch the Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Moon Monkey S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kissing An Angel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Duodenum S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Primate Grooming Procedures S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scarecrow, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turbo Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Chocolate S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: Jason Stevens
Page Views: 1,987 total, 25/month
Shared By: darrell hodges on May 21, 2011
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Long route with lots of jugs, good sidepulls and a couple of pockets. There is a slight bulge near the top which is easily navigated via the huge jugs.
Well bolted and cleaned, very fun.

Location

This is now the right most route on the wall, about 10 feet right of Primate Grooming Procedures.

Protection

12 bolts with 1 rap hanger and 1 chain at the top

Photos

Richard Heying
Albuquerque, New Mexico
 
Richard Heying   Albuquerque, New Mexico
 
One of the best easiest routes i have ever done in utah thank you maple canyon for such a fun long route Oct 10, 2017
Lenny D
  5.7+
Lenny D  
  5.7+
All I can say is WOW! Such a fun route! (gave it a 7+ due to cold fingers, when in the sun it is a fun 7!) Sep 26, 2017
localshred
  5.7
localshred  
  5.7
Shockingly good for 5.7. Quality stuff! May 31, 2016
DavidCollins
Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
DavidCollins   Grand Junction, CO
  5.7
Tremendous route! After the initial ramp, there must be at least 70ft of continuous 5.7 climbing, all on great holds and well protected but certainly sustained for the grade. Oct 14, 2013
Jordy, I'm 99.9% certain that no one "chipped a hold" on this route. So you can give it 4 stars. Oct 6, 2013
Jordy Hanson  
 
pretty stinking good climb! around the 8-10th bolt there is a right hand hold just right of the bolt that looks to have been chipped...if so, what was the point? to bring it from a 5.6 with one 5.7 move to a plain ole 5.6? (4 stars if that hold wasnt chipped). Keep in mind that my intent is to ask if that was chipped more than to accuse that is was. if anyone knows please answer. Jun 3, 2013
Only one set of chains at anchor and second bolt had no rap ring or other means of routing rope for descent. In hindsite I should have left a carabiner. Future parties might want to bring a quick link to leave behind. Nov 8, 2012
Zirkel
Bishop, CA
 
Zirkel   Bishop, CA
 
Wow, this is just such a stellar route! Long, continuous and quality 5.easy climbing. A must-do on the Orangutan Wall.

And please... Don't FEED the monkey! Oct 25, 2012
Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
Perin Blanchard   Orem, UT  
So, Jason: Darren has this as Don't Feed the Monkey and the line left of Superfly as Don't Touch the Monkey.

Which is it? May 31, 2012
Jason Stevens
Ephraim, UT
Jason Stevens   Ephraim, UT
It's called Dont Touch The Monkey Feb 27, 2012