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Routes in Orangutan Wall

Angel's Share, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Blackberry S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Creampuff S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Don't Feed The Monkey S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Don't Touch the Monkey S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Full Moon Monkey S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Kissing An Angel S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Monkey Duodenum S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Primate Grooming Procedures S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Scarecrow, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Turbo Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
White Chocolate S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Jim Stone and Jeff Baldwin
Page Views: 1,283 total, 10/month
Shared By: Perin Blanchard on Sep 13, 2007
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

A fairly long climb by Maple standards, The Angel's Share starts out low angled and progressively steepens to vertical below the first bolt. The climbing is on vertical to slightly overhanging rock the rest of the way. Positive holds most of the way, along with some pockets, sidepulls, and pinches. Depending on the season you may disturb some of the resident wasps.

Location

The Angel's Share climbs light colored rock between two black streaks. The first two bolts and hangers are reddish brown in color.

Protection

8 bolts, Metolius rap hangers

Photos

After reading Perins description, I'm no sure which route is Angels Share.
There are two routes here that share an anchor. I thought the right hand one is Angels Share, but the left one has reddish brown bolts at the start, which I guess would make that Angels Share according to Perins description.
The left route seems significantly harder than the right one. May 22, 2011
Kenny Clark
State College, PA
  5.10b/c
Kenny Clark   State College, PA
  5.10b/c
A long and sustained route. I didn't feel like there was a defining crux, just relax, hold on and push to the anchors. A slight bulge about 60-70 ft up made for some fun moves. Apr 3, 2011