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Routes in (L1) John Nichol's Wall

A Ghost in the Music T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conjugal Bliss T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Last Beautiful Days of Autumn T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Milagro Beanfield War S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Nirvana Blues S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obamanos! S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
On the Mesa T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sterile Cuckoo, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stimulus Package S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
TR TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
TR, Project T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
TR2 TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Treadwell S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wizard of Loneliness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Writing Down the Bones S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 69 total · 1/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on May 5, 2011
Admins: Mike Howard, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route

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Ramifications. Caution loose rock below and through roof. Needs cleaning.


Downstream of Milagro.




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Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
I climbed this yesterday (with one fall getting into the slot) not realizing, A.) It was a project and B.) Some gear above the roof was necessary. (I was able to step over on a ledge after the roof and haul up some gear, though, so it was fine.)
Despite some punky rock, I enjoyed it. Lots of awkward holds, body tension, funky movements and even some chimneying-type stuff. As testament to the funky moves, I'm quite sore now; 24+ hours later.

If it's not an open project, I'll stay off next time we're there. Thanks. Jan 16, 2012
Mike Howard

Mike Howard    
Jason, glad you enjoyed it. I crowbarred about 300 lbs of choss out of the band under the slot last time we were on it and wanted to have another look at it. The holds in the chimney are also hollow and I never wanted a belayer to take one on the noggin. We'll get her ready for prime time in the spring. I am glad you guys survived it. Jan 17, 2012

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