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Routes in (L1) John Nichol's Wall

A Ghost in the Music T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Conjugal Bliss T,S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Last Beautiful Days of Autumn T,S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Milagro Beanfield War S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nirvana Blues S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Obamanos! S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
On the Mesa T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sterile Cuckoo, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Stimulus Package S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
TR TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
TR, Project T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
TR2 TR 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Treadwell S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wizard of Loneliness S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Writing Down the Bones S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Bob D. & Mike Howard
Page Views: 1,088 total, 9/month
Shared By: Mike Howard on Jul 2, 2007
Admins: Mike Howard, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Amazing climbing up to and over a six foot overhang. Some loose holds may persist. The climbing above the overhang is excellent. Stick clip the first bolt and then do hard moves up the thin seam. The crux is moving right from the layback to below the roof.

Maybe the longest and therefore one of the best route at the crag.

Location

The route lies down and right of Nirvana Blues. You can't miss it.

Protection

Ten clips will get you to a two bolt anchor.

Photos

Mick S
Utah
Mick S   Utah
This route still needs more cleaning below the roof. Also, the protruding flake that you layaway on to get to the loose rock below the roof is hollow and moves a bit, beware. Hard start to a hard clip, didn't have a stick clip, but I would recommend one. Oct 11, 2010
Jason Halladay
Los Alamos, NM
  5.11c
Jason Halladay   Los Alamos, NM  
  5.11c
Super fun route but the scary loose rock section just below the roof detracts a bit. Thanks to George it is now a bit cleaner in there. Feb 7, 2009
Mike Howard

  5.11+
Mike Howard    
  5.11+
Roberto,
Es un buen nombre.
Gracias,
Amarante Cordova Jul 2, 2007