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Routes in Greedo

Greedo S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hammerhead S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Light Saber S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 35 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 465 total, 6/month
Shared By: Nathan Scherneck on Jan 26, 2011
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Start with a bouldery sequence and proceed up juggier holds with reachier moves.

Location

On the right arete of the crag. Right of Greedo.

Protection

4 bolts, 2-bolt anchor
Rolf Rybak
BC
 
Rolf Rybak   BC
 
Really liked this route Reed, nice job on the rebolting. It's not neccessary to use the starting flake. Feb 20, 2017
Reed Ames
Hesperia, CA
 
Reed Ames   Hesperia, CA
 
Jay and I retro bolted this route last year. There is now 4 bolts and a new anchor. The grade is now maybe 11a/b. Oct 8, 2015
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
I give it a star. Reaching and clipping the first bolt is safe enough, the flake in question is large and from my recollection solid on top and sounds a bit like a bell down low but you're not honking on it down low and I think it's attached enough up top to stay put for awhile. I levered off to unclip the draw with ease. Small crimps and cross through will reach a three finger pad kinda sharp liback, I'm fairly certain this is key. This is where things started to go bad. Beyond that the next series of moves are reachy and I felt the entire time like I was barn-dooring the the left. TR or not, it was disconcerting just the same. Multiple hangs, big high steps, hip in all sorts of tricks. Being stronger would definitely help as you choke up on the liback (getting better with every inch).

After hanging a few times I magically levitated the extra inch or so, I was pretty much over it at this point so grabbed the flake high where it's quite positive and continued progress to the summit. In my TR opinion, crux is getting beyond the 1st bolt & stable to clip the second. Falling would not be ideal with potential ground fall? Feb 6, 2014
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.11
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.11
Gave this a go and it did not go that well. Opening moves before the first bolt are not real hard, but if the big flake you are honking on to clip the first bolt comes off, you'll be a mess. Moving past the first bolt features some really hard pulls and long reaches. Susan got much higher than me and found some long reaches and off balance moves on the barndoorish arete up high. The upper clips might be awkward.

We heard afterword that a hold or two has broken off and the route might need some reworking as to the bolt situation. Sounds good to me. I gave this a bomb, but it is better than that, and I would go .884 starts. If it gets fixed up, it could skyrocket all the way to 1.496 starts.

No way on Satans green earth this thing is 5.10c.

If you are top roping, there are anchors on top and there is a fairly easy way onto the top of the formation directly behind the routes. Feb 5, 2014