Early Access
| Type: | Trad, 60 ft (18 m) |
| GPS: | 40.42152, -105.22604 |
| FA: | Adam and Elizabeth Paashaus, Spring '09 |
| Page Views: | 1,112 total · 6/month |
| Shared By: | Adam Paashaus on Jan 1, 2011 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Per JF M: as of May 2022, there is no signage on-site, nor information on the USFS webpage for the Cameron Peak Fire (nor on their published map of closures) that indicates the area is closed.
Per Bruce Hildenbrand: it appears that the Forest Service has closed access to all the climbing areas accessed via Storm Mountain Road (Monastery, Cedar Park, Combat Rock, etc.) until they can clear all the dangerous dead trees from the Cameron Peak fire.
I worked this issue with Eric Murdock at the AF, and it looks like the Forest Service picked Devil's Gulch Road as the southern boundary even though all the climbing areas on MP.com were not burned.
Description
Climb the obvious hand crack until the angle eases. At this point step left across the slab to another crack and follow it to the top and build a gear anchor.
Variation. The original route went straight up the same crack where it gets wide, all the way to the top. There is no good protection possible in that section but the climbing is not hard.
Location
From the base of the other 2 routes, follow the cliff down and to the climbers left around a corner. Lil Sadie is tucked up into another small corridor and faces south so it sees more sun through the day than the other routes. From the top of the route it is possible to traverse right across the slab to the top of Shady Grove to set up the TR anchor (Look for a large boulder next to a small tree).



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