Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1700 ft (515 m), 27 pitches, Grade VI
FA: DaveJones, John Markel, Bob Wallace, 1972
Page Views: 1,094 total · 7/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 15, 2010
Admins: Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Description Suggest change

INTRODUCTION

This was one of the first grade VI climbs put up in the Colombia Mountains. Beckey-Mather on Snowpatch, Rowell-Jones-Quamar on North Howser (1971) and Roskelly-Copynzski? (1971)on Dag Peak in the Valhallas are the only grade sixes done before Ohno Wall. The first ascent party took 4 1/2 days, using 5 bolts.

APPROACH

Markel, from Boulder, CO, choppered into a base camp at the headwaters of Butters Creek. Wallace hiked in from the Duncan, presumably via the green hell of Butters Creek. Jones came in via a high route from Glacier Circle Hut. For those who are not chopper-cheats, Butter Creek is easier for getting to the base of the wall. The standard route on Moby Dick descends into the Houston Creek, so this valley might be more useful. But only if the light blue glacier route, marked on the map, is safe.

[Please note that this climb is on the "north" side of the mtn, not easily accessed from Houston Lake. R.Hall 2021 ]

ROUTE

Located on the photo.

Wet slabs and poor rock slowed progress. Jones was hit and bruised by falling rock. The team scored a hit in a lightning storm. Markel told me, a couple of years later, that it was not his favorite route. Looks like room for more!

Photos

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