Type: Trad, Aid, Alpine, 1700 ft, 27 pitches, Grade VI
FA: DaveJones, John Markel, Bob Wallace, 1972
Page Views: 483 total · 5/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Dec 15, 2010
Admins: Kate Lynn

You & This Route

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This was one of the first grade VI climbs put up in the Colombia Mountains. Beckey-Mather on Snowpatch, Rowell-Jones-Quamar on North Howser (1971) and Roskelly-Copynzski? (1971)on Dag Peak in the Valhallas are the only grade sixes done before Ohno Wall. The first ascent party took 4 1/2 days, using 5 bolts.


Markel, from Boulder, CO, choppered into a base camp at the headwaters of Butters Creek. Wallace hiked in from the Duncan, presumably via the green hell of Butters Creek. Jones came in via a high route from Glacier Circle Hut. For those who are not chopper-cheats, Butter Creek is easier for getting to the base of the wall. The standard route on Moby Dick descends into the Houston Creek, so this valley might be more useful. But only if the light blue glacier route, marked on the map, is safe.


Located on the photo.

Wet slabs and poor rock slowed progress. Jones was hit and bruised by falling rock. The team scored a hit in a lightning storm. Markel told me, a couple of years later, that it was not his favorite route. Looks like room for more!