Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Julia's Outcrop (Governor Lister Cliff)

5 Deadly Venoms S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clicking Barnacles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Ship S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grog Supply T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Julia the Viking Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Cutlass T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nailed It! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Our Typhoon Rhythm T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Oyster Odyssey S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pale Young Eels S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pink Medusa T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Poo Poo S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Saffron Spider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smoke On the Water S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spawning Effort T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mathias Holladay
Page Views: 2,859 total, 34/month
Shared By: CameraisHeavy on Nov 20, 2010
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Despite the choss, this route is so steep it has to be classic. Totally wild.

Location

This route is just to the right of Clicking Barnackles.

Protection

Bolts and trad.

Photos

Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Named after the Deep Purple song, as well as the fog over the water one morning . . . Mar 21, 2014
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Nice! glad folks are getting on this. wish that bolt could've been in a better position... A 2-3' threaded rod glue-in might be sufficient to go through the flake where you really want the clip... Aug 6, 2013
Andy Walbon
Bellingham,WA
 
Andy Walbon   Bellingham,WA
 
Best climb in Bellingham!! The 4th bolt is behind an edge. It seems to saw your protection if you fall. helps to bring a longer runner with two strands. Jul 13, 2013
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Yes, ditto on what Scott said and thanks for your post. I sincerely am glad you and others are frequenting Julia's Outcrop and enjoying those interesting moves. Post some more fotografs when you get a moment and if there's trail work cuz of erosion issues, help out there, perhaps... Jan 17, 2012
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Nelsonthad-
From my perspective, thank you for both the apology and fixing it. I appreciate your intention.
If you want to contribute positively to the climbing community, there are tons of garbage bolts at Mt. Erie and other places around WA that need to be replaced. If you're around during the summer, I can always use a hand. If not, I can put you in touch with folks that are replacing in the spring or fall.
cheers, scott Jan 17, 2012
CameraisHeavy
Everett, wa
 
CameraisHeavy   Everett, wa
 
Dear SMassey, Mathias Holladay, and climbing community, I would like to apologize for turning the bottom half of smoke on the water into a 5.8. I did not intend to offend anyone rather I was trying to maximize the little rain sheltered climbing we have in w. WA. for the benefit of the whole climbing community. Due to the complaints I have removed all the bolts and chain that I placed on this route and filled the holes, returning it to it's former splendor. Jan 16, 2012
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Scott, you deserve a beer! Sep 22, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Well, this is just about finished re-equipping. The former 3rd bolt in a loose block was removed (not by me). If someone wants to sling some static line through the pinch above the first anchor, that'd be fine with me. I haven't had time. As it stands, clip 2 bolts, then the lower anchor, then sling the pinch, commit to the undercling, clipping an awkward new 1/2x5" SS bolt (rock quality dictated the placement), to good shake, clip new 1/2x 2.75" SS, to the jug, one last bolt, then the sloping topout to the left and up. Fixe chains and rings on top. Sep 4, 2011
Matthias Holladay
Shiprock, Navajolands
Matthias Holladay   Shiprock, Navajolands
Please, if you are going to add bolts, change FP on other people's routes - folks, ask; if not me, the B'ham climbing community. Ah well... May 9, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Really curious who thought it would be a good idea to turn one of the best, steepest, 11's in the B'ham area into a 3-bolt 5.8. The first and third bolts were placed as retro-bolts last year without permission from the FA party. Weak Sauce, people. Not only that, you placed the third in a loose block. That's why it was not there in the first place. That, and that it's not needed if you're climbing 5.11. The route ends at chains on top of the cliff. I had replaced almost all the bolts, but had not finished. I will probably leave the mid-way anchor, so as to avoid a bolt war there (Matthias, do you care?), but you haven't done the route til you've clipped the top chains. May 8, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
This line may be one of the steepest in the B'ham area. The fp has been replaced with 3/8 SS, and the anchors are over the lip. As of 7/24, the third bolt protecting the crux is still original. caveat emptor... #1,3 c4 useful between the 2nd and 3rd bolt. don't know if they'll hold, but they might. Jul 20, 2009