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Routes in Julia's Outcrop (Governor Lister Cliff)

5 Deadly Venoms S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Clicking Barnacles S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Crystal Ship S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Grog Supply T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Julia the Viking Queen S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Magic Cutlass T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nailed It! S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Our Typhoon Rhythm T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Oyster Odyssey S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Pale Young Eels S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pink Medusa T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rat Poo Poo S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Saffron Spider S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Smoke On the Water S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Spawning Effort T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Mathias Holladay
Page Views: 1,787 total, 21/month
Shared By: CameraisHeavy on Nov 20, 2010 with updates
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This one is a nice looking line and looks deceptively easy. Many have backed down due to the high first bolt. A combination of friction footwork and balancey side pulls makes this a great route and a hard 9. A cam can be placed low on the route if desired for a more tolerable first clip.

Location

On the Left side of the wall. Just to the right of Spawning Effort. It's the only climb on the wall that looks like a slab route.

Protection

Sport. One medium cam down low if desired. It's also possible to pre-clip the first bolt.

Photos

Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
The real challenge of this route is keeping your mind intact once you realize you'd deck if you blew any of the clips. If only one change is made, moving the 2nd bolt so it's clipable from the obvious stance to the right, instead of forcing you to traverse and clip at your shin, would make a big difference.

Instead of replacing the anchor, it appears someone just added another bolt and chain to the right of the existing anchor. So yoy can rest assured there is at least one bomber bolt included in the three point anchor at the top... Jul 24, 2016
KyGB
Washington State
 
KyGB   Washington State
 
Fun climb!
The direct boulder start is fun, and provides a good position for the belayer. Less rope drag and zig zag. My preferred way to do this climb.

Many of the bolts in this area could use an update.

THIS CLIMB REALLY NEEDS A NEW ANCHOR SOON... Still works, but its getting pretty rusty... Mar 1, 2016
DynoTee
Bellingham, WA
  5.9
DynoTee   Bellingham, WA
  5.9
You can either add a cam in or preclip the first bolt This route is quite fun Feb 10, 2015
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
This is an old-school bolted route. The cam in question is a yellow Alien/Metolius. May 8, 2011
smassey
CO
smassey   CO
Great route! Fun thin face climbing. Takes a great yellow Metolius before the first bolt. 3 bolts, chain anchor. This is the 4th route from left. The first bolt on this route is shared with Our Typhoon Rhythm, Grog Supply, and Magic Cutlass. Jul 19, 2009