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Routes in Beached Whale Boulder

Beached Whale V6 7A
Beached Whale Arete V3 6A
Doug's Lowball Lip Traverse V0 4
Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,894 total, 22/month
Shared By: cstorms on Nov 12, 2010
Admins: Joe M., Old Timer

You & This Route


15 Opinions

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Description

This problem is very short. The crux for me was the first move to the V-shaped crimp. Getting your feet situated underneath you feels a bit awkward, but once you hit that first crimp and readjust, the rest of the problem flows nicely. Fun, aesthetic line, it is just unfortunate it is so tiny. It is worth a try if you are in the area and enjoy overhangs with small, positive crimps.

Location

This is an obvious line out the center of the small boulder to the left of the Alcove.

Protection

One pad will do, a spotter is not necessary... lowball.

Photos

Graham O.  
 
Short but fun! Yes it is lowball, but the landing stinks, and I was the unlucky one to tumble down the hill almost all the way to the road. Jul 14, 2016
Ryan Malloy
Worcester, MA
 
Ryan Malloy   Worcester, MA
 
Many of the chalked holds are useless or unnecessary. The rock is so solid and so steep that the face is perpetually dry, meaning that the chalk never washes away.

Without spoiling anything, I've encountered two different sets of beta that work: one uses four moves, and may feel easier for lighter climbers. The other uses just two moves, and will feel easier for more powerful climbers. Mar 20, 2015