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Routes in Roadside

Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Ed Lyman
Page Views: 1,955 total · 21/month
Shared By: BCD on Nov 9, 2010
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Shawn Heath, Jake Jones

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Classic crimp problem. Only downside is that the bottom block/shelf is off for feet.

Admin Note: This is an amazing boulder problem and a staple point for the V7 grade in VA. If you live in or around the Bburg area and want to test your steep crimping skills, this is your line.
Additionally, the fact that the bottom shelf is not on is not a hindrance at all. Not using the bottom is pretty straight forward.

Location

Sit start on two low obvious crimps to the right of centerline. Climb straight up on crimps and dyno to a three finger jug. Then top out on jugs.

Protection

A couple pads (pretty bad landing)

Photos

Can go static to side pull if you are taller. Still just as hard. Does anyone know how the rout originally went before jug broke off? Apr 14, 2011
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  V7
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  V7
This problem was an eliminate line from day one. The huge Jug Mid Wall was always off for this problem. Basically if you use the hold from where the giant jug used to be, this would be new beta. If you see the pic of Matt under this problem. That is the new beta. Big Gaston toss to the remaining hold of the old jug. The new beta basically removed the old crux where you had to pull through on a very small right hand crimp. Also, IMO the missing finish jug adds a bit back to the grade on this problem. It used to be the finsh was very obvious to a huge jug horn with your left. Now the move off the three finger jug is to a good edge. Requires a bit more precision after all the steep crimping! Oct 21, 2012
Jay Shultis
Oneonta, NY
  V7
Jay Shultis   Oneonta, NY  
  V7
FA: Ed Lyman Oct 24, 2012

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