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Routes in Orange Wall

Geneius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Get a Haircut Doug T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hazmat T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Heart of Darkness T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Rico's Maildrop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Rock Jihad S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Tatanka T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Gene Kistler
Page Views: 416 total · 5/month
Shared By: camhead on Oct 31, 2010
Admins: Pnelson, Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

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South side crags access issue. Details
Writing in chalk Details

Description

Five bolts of steep jughauling lead into an excellent splitter crack.

Location

Toward the right end of Orange Wall; you cannot miss this route.

Protection

Five bolts, plus lots of fingers-sized gear. Also, contrary to what the new guidebook says, there are NOT bolted anchors at the top of this route. You will want to either top it out, or traverse off to the right at an obvious ledge, and finish by going to the pair of bolted anchors around the corner.

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Abel Jones
Bishop, ca
 
Abel Jones   Bishop, ca
 
I bet not too many people get on this... its a bit chossy through the bolted tiered roofs, but I have to say that overall this route is a classic! Wild sport route with a juggy and fairly hard final move over a roof to a pumpy rest. In most places in the country it'd be over. Then the business begins. Full on steep fingerlocks and all gear to the top. Wild and extremely satisfying. Enjoy! May 14, 2011