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W Virginia
> New River Gorge…
> Meadow River Gorge
> S Side Crags (C…
> Orange Wall (CLOSED)
Tatanka
5.11c YDS 6c+ French 24 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 24 ZA E4 6a British
Avg: 4 from 5
votes
Routes in Orange Wall (CLOSED)
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Ally McBeal S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Forgetful S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Geneius S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Get a Haircut Doug T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Hazmat T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Heart of Darkness T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Rico's Maildrop S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Rock Jihad S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Tatanka T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Territorial Pissings T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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| Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
| FA: | Gene Kistler, Doug Houghton |
| Page Views: | 1,789 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Jeremy Steck on Apr 19, 2010 |
| Admins: | Pat Goodman, Chris Whisenhunt, Amanda Smith, Pnelson |
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Access Issue: SOUTH SIDE CRAGS ARE CLOSED
Details
7/2021: Access in this area has always been nebulous, but recently landowners have made clear that they want NO visitors in the area. Please refrain from visiting any of the crags on the Southside of the Meadow, including those along Glade Creek (Mud Hueco) and Orange Wall. This includes drivers, cyclists, ATVers, and climbers. Please climb at another crag.
Access Issue: PARKING ALONG HIGHWAY 19
Details
This year parking along southbound highway 19 has really increased in numbers. Often, nearly 100 cars are just parked along the side of a busy four lane, 65mph highway. While it's not yet illegal (but surely will be if it continues), here are some guidelines:
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
- DO NOT park past the sign near the bridge. It indicates something like "no parking to the right," but actually means "no parking past this sign" (thanks DOT). This is to keep access open for emergency 4x4s that may need to descend to gorge for rescues.
-Park completely off the pavement, preferably diagonally, with vehicle rears facing away from the road. I've seen a couple cars actually back out into the highway as they exit the parking. This is stupid and dangerous.
-consider using the large gravel parking lot just off the Underwood Rd. Seriously, it only adds an extra 5 minutes of walking. You came to the Meadow for those closely bolted easy climbs that the NRG lacks, so pay your dues and walk a little, goober. Seriously, you take an extra five minutes to set up your hammock at the crag anyway, it's not a huge deal.
Local climbers and boaters have been getting increasingly irate about bad/excessive parking off of 19. If it keeps as it has been going, the likely outcome will be a simple ban on parking, with no other alternatives. Let's try to self-regulate, m'kay?
Description
This route has amazing movement and flow. It's fairly continuous but most of the harder moves are near the bolts. The first bolt is about 25 feet up at the top of the huecos. You might find a huge stick clip here, but you can also place a stopper at the bottom of the huecos. Climb up through the huecos and at the first bolt head left. Find a way to reach the jugs up left and angle back right to clip the 2nd bolt. If you can hang out here, you might be able to sling a chickenhead between the bolts. Continue up to reach a small overhang and the 3rd bolt. Climb straight up from here using many sloping holds. From here keep going up and right passing 1 more bolt until you reach the shuts.
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