Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 4,008 total · 33/month
Shared By: Asa King on Oct 20, 2010 with 1 Suggestions
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures ***** RAIN AND WET ROCK ***** The sandstone in Zion is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN ZION during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. Seasonal Raptor Closures Details
Access Issue: Kolob Resevoir road has winter closure. Details

Description

From the base of North Guardian Angel, take the obvious 3rd class crack strait up to the saddle, about 70 Meters. From there follow four pitches of 4th class climbing up the ridge to the top. Be careful where you sit, the belay spots are covered with ants that want this climb to their own, and they'll let you know that. Some of the sandstone can be slick with a think layer of dirt on this climb.

Location

From the end of the Northgate Peaks trail, find a small climbers trail that eventually dissapates, and head strait to North Guardian Angel, the peak inbetween the other two. Descend the same route.

Protection

Leave the rack at home, because there are almost no places to place gear. The climbing is easy enough that it isn't critical to rope up for the climb. There are anchors on trees along the way up that you can rope up a second, but mostly these are used for setting up a rappel. Take a 60m rope.

However, if you are on the more careful side or like placing gear, bring a light rack with a few small pieces of pro, it may come in handy. In addition some bail gear may be a good idea. Most of the pitches on this climb are very long if you stay roped up. It is not possible to rappel from belay station to belay station with a 60M or even 70M rope.

Photos