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Routes in Old Folks' Wall

American Crawl T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Bulgaria S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bunny, The T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Gelding Years, The T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ish Kabibble T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Squeaky Clean T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Thriller S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
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Type: Trad, 80 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Rob Kelman, Ben Boykin, 9/18/09
Page Views: 118 total · 1/month
Shared By: Ben Boykin on Oct 19, 2010
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description [Suggest Change]

Pitch 1: Climb gritty blocks (on the far left) onto the 15-foot-high shelf which runs along the base of the wall; crawl to the right until one is able the stand erect upon the shelf at the vertical offwidth crack. Belay here - you'll have rope drag if you don't!

Pitch 2: Ascend the offwidth above, which eases considerably after the hand-sized section. Belay your second from the top of the crack.

A direct start, "Crawl Direct," (5.8) is possible by climbing the gritty, dirty groove (bolt) beneath the upper crack.
American Crawl (solid line) with Crawl Direct option (dotted line).

Location [Suggest Change]

Leftmost obvious crack on the wall.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Standard Vedauwoo Rack (stoppers through #6 Camalot). Rappel 70 feet from anchors atop "The Bunny," just to the northeast.

Photos

Ben Boykin
Cheyenne, WY
 
Ben Boykin   Cheyenne, WY
 
A visionary route of Rob Kelman's. Gosh, this is a fun route, no matter how you do it. Besides, you can toprope "The Bunny" from the anchor. If do climb The Bunny, be sure to add your consensus rating of that route. Sep 21, 2012

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